Learn how to connect speakers to your Hisense TV using HDMI ARC, optical cable, Bluetooth, and more. Step-by-step guides for Roku, Google TV, VIDAA, and Fire TV models with troubleshooting tips.

Your Hisense TV delivers stunning visuals, but those built-in speakers? They're holding back your entire entertainment experience. After testing multiple Hisense models across the A6, U6, U7, and U8 series, I can tell you that connecting external speakers transforms movie nights from "decent" to genuinely cinematic.
This guide covers every method to connect speakers to your Hisense TV - whether you're setting up a high-end soundbar through HDMI ARC, running an optical cable to your receiver, or pairing Bluetooth headphones for late-night viewing. I've organized everything by connection type and included platform-specific instructions for VIDAA, Roku, Google TV, Fire TV, and Android TV operating systems.
Before diving into cable connections and menu navigation, figure out which method actually makes sense for your setup. Not every Hisense TV has every port, and not every speaker system supports every connection type.
Connection Methods Comparison
Method | Audio Quality | Setup Difficulty | Best For | Limitations |
|---|---|---|---|---|
HDMI ARC/eARC | Excellent (supports Dolby Atmos via eARC) | Moderate | Soundbars, AV receivers | Requires CEC configuration |
Optical (TOSLINK) | Very Good (Dolby Digital, DTS) | Easy | Older soundbars, receivers without ARC | No Dolby Atmos, no remote control passthrough |
Bluetooth | Good (stereo only) | Very Easy | Wireless speakers, headphones | Audio latency, stereo only |
3.5mm/RCA | Acceptable (analog stereo) | Easy | Powered speakers, older equipment | Stereo only, potential interference |
Choose HDMI ARC if: Your soundbar or receiver supports it and you want single-remote control plus high-quality audio. This is the recommended method for most users.
Choose Optical if: Your audio equipment lacks HDMI ARC, you're experiencing compatibility issues with ARC, or you prefer a simpler digital connection.
Choose Bluetooth if: You want wireless convenience for headphones or portable speakers, and you can tolerate slight audio delay.
Choose 3.5mm/RCA if: You're connecting older powered speakers or a stereo system without digital inputs.
For optimal audio configuration after connecting your speakers, you'll want to explore your hisense tv sound settings to fine-tune output levels and formats. If you notice any synchronization problems between audio and video, check our guide on hisense tv audio out of sync issues.
Finding the right port on your TV is half the battle. Hisense TVs include different audio outputs depending on the model year and series, so let's identify what you're working with.
The HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel) port sends audio from your TV to an external sound system through a single HDMI cable. On most Hisense TVs, this port is labeled "HDMI 1 (ARC)" or "HDMI 2 (ARC)" - look for the small "ARC" text printed near the port.
The difference between ARC and eARC matters for home theater enthusiasts:
ARC supports compressed audio formats like Dolby Digital and DTS, adequate for most soundbars
eARC (enhanced ARC) adds bandwidth for lossless formats including Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby Atmos - required for premium audio systems
Most 2022 and newer Hisense U-series TVs include eARC. Budget A-series models typically have standard ARC only.
The optical port - labeled "Digital Audio Out," "Optical," or "SPDIF" - is a small square connector that transmits audio using light pulses through a fiber-optic cable. You'll often see a faint red glow when the TV is on and the port is active.
Optical connections support Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS surround sound, making them perfectly adequate for most soundbars and older receivers. The main limitation is bandwidth - optical can't transmit Dolby Atmos or other high-resolution formats.
Many Hisense models include a standard headphone jack that doubles as an audio output for powered speakers. When you plug something into this port, the TV speakers typically mute automatically.
This analog connection only outputs stereo audio, but it's useful for connecting computer speakers, portable Bluetooth transmitters, or wired headphones during late-night viewing.
Most Hisense TVs manufactured after 2020 - including the A6, U6, U7, and U8 series - have built-in Bluetooth. You can verify by checking Settings > Remote & Accessories (or Settings > Bluetooth, depending on your operating system).
If you want to learn more about the port layout on your specific model, including USB connections for media playback, see our guide on hisense tv usb port options.
Hisense TV Audio Outputs by Series
TV Series | HDMI ARC | eARC | Optical | 3.5mm Jack | Bluetooth |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
A6 Series (2024-2026) | Yes | Some models | Yes | Yes | Yes |
U6 Series | Yes | Yes | Yes | Some models | Yes |
U7 Series | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | Yes (5.0) |
U8 Series | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | Yes (5.0) |
U9 Series | Yes | Yes | Yes | No | Yes (5.2) |
HDMI ARC is the gold standard for TV-to-soundbar connections. One cable handles audio transmission, and when configured correctly, your TV remote controls the soundbar's volume automatically.
HDMI cable (High Speed HDMI 2.0 or better; use Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 for eARC)
Soundbar or AV receiver with HDMI ARC support
Hisense TV with HDMI ARC port
Power off both devices before connecting cables to prevent potential HDMI handshake issues.
Locate the HDMI ARC port on your Hisense TV. Check the back panel - it's usually HDMI 1 or HDMI 2, with "ARC" printed below or beside the port.
Find the HDMI ARC port on your soundbar. This is typically labeled "HDMI OUT (ARC)" or simply "ARC." Don't confuse it with HDMI input ports if your soundbar has multiple HDMI connections.
Connect the HDMI cable from your TV's ARC port to your soundbar's ARC port.
Power on both devices and give them about 30 seconds to recognize each other.
Enable CEC Control on your Hisense TV. This is the critical step most people miss. The exact menu path depends on your TV's operating system:
Hisense VIDAA TV: Settings → System → HDMI & CEC → CEC Control → On → CEC Device Lists → Detect
Hisense Roku TV: Settings → System → Control other devices (CEC) → System audio control → On
Hisense Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → HDMI-CEC → CEC Control → On
Hisense Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → HDMI CEC → HDMI CEC Device Control → On
Hisense Android TV: Settings → Device Preferences → HDMI CEC → CEC Control → On
Run device detection. After enabling CEC, navigate to the CEC device list and select "Detect" or "Search for devices." Your soundbar should appear and respond (often by lighting up or displaying a connection message).
Set audio output to ARC. Go to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and select "ARC" or "HDMI (ARC)" instead of "TV Speakers."
Once connected, configure the digital audio output format:
Auto: TV selects the best format your soundbar supports (recommended starting point)
PCM: Uncompressed stereo - use this if you experience sync issues or compatibility problems
Pass Through: Sends audio unchanged to your soundbar - best for Dolby Atmos when using eARC
Dolby Digital: Forces Dolby Digital output for 5.1 content
If your soundbar supports Dolby Atmos and your TV has eARC, use Pass Through to preserve the original audio format from streaming apps.
Different manufacturers call HDMI-CEC by different names, which causes confusion during setup:
Brand | CEC Name |
|---|---|
Hisense | HDMI-CEC, CEC Control |
Samsung | Anynet+ |
LG | SimpLink |
Sony | BRAVIA Sync |
Vizio | CEC |
Regardless of what it's called on your soundbar, the setting needs to be enabled on both devices for ARC to function properly.
To ensure your TV software supports the latest audio features, check our guide on hisense tv firmware update procedures. Outdated firmware is a common cause of ARC connectivity problems.
No sound after connecting:
Verify CEC Control is enabled (this is the most common oversight)
Try a different HDMI cable - damaged or low-quality cables cause ARC failures
Power cycle both devices: unplug for 60 seconds, then reconnect
Sound plays from TV speakers instead of soundbar:
Go to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and explicitly select ARC
Some TVs require you to disable TV speakers manually
Soundbar volume doesn't respond to TV remote:
CEC must be enabled on both devices
Check your soundbar's manual for its CEC setting location
Optical connections provide reliable digital audio without the complexity of CEC configuration. If HDMI ARC is giving you trouble, optical is an excellent fallback.
Optical (TOSLINK) cable
Soundbar, receiver, or DAC with optical input
Hisense TV with optical output
Locate the optical output on your Hisense TV. It's usually on the back panel, labeled "Digital Audio Out" or "Optical." The port has a distinctive square shape with a small flap or door.
Remove protective caps from both ends of your optical cable. These small plastic covers protect the delicate fiber-optic tips during shipping.
Handle the cable carefully. Optical cables contain glass or plastic fibers that can break if bent sharply. Avoid kinking the cable or wrapping it tightly.
Insert the cable into your TV's optical port until it clicks into place. The connectors only fit one way, so don't force them.
Connect the other end to your soundbar's optical input. Look for "Optical In," "TOSLINK," or "Digital In."
Configure your TV's audio output:
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output
Select "Optical" or "External Speakers"
Set Digital Audio Format to "PCM" for maximum compatibility, or "Auto" if your soundbar handles Dolby Digital
Set your soundbar to optical input. Use the soundbar's remote or buttons to select the optical/digital input source.
When using optical connections:
PCM delivers uncompressed stereo audio - most compatible option
Bitstream/Raw passes Dolby Digital or DTS to your soundbar for decoding - use this for 5.1 surround
Optical cannot transmit Dolby Atmos, Dolby TrueHD, or DTS-HD Master Audio
Be aware that optical connections don't support TV remote volume control of your soundbar. You'll need to use your soundbar's remote for volume adjustments unless your equipment supports alternative control methods.
Also, the TV speakers typically don't disable automatically with optical connections. You may need to manually turn off TV speakers in the Sound settings to avoid audio from both sources.
For help navigating your TV's sound menu and understanding format options like PCM versus Bitstream, see our comprehensive hisense tv sound settings guide.
Bluetooth offers wireless convenience at the cost of some audio latency. It's perfect for headphones during late-night viewing or casual listening through portable speakers, but I wouldn't recommend it for watching content where lip sync matters.
First, verify your Hisense TV has built-in Bluetooth:
Navigate to your TV's settings menu
Look for "Bluetooth," "Remote & Accessories," or "Connected Devices"
If you see Bluetooth options, your TV supports it
Most Hisense TVs from 2020 onward include Bluetooth, but some budget models may lack this feature. The easiest verification method is to open the pairing menu and put any Bluetooth device in pairing mode - if your TV finds it, Bluetooth is working. Newer models in the U7, U8, and A7 series include Bluetooth 5.0, which offers improved range and stability compared to older versions.
Before attempting to pair:
Charge your speaker fully - low battery can cause connection failures
Clear previous pairings if the speaker was connected to another device
Position the speaker within 15 feet of the TV during initial pairing
Turn off other Bluetooth devices in the room to prevent interference
Hisense VIDAA TV:
Press Home on your remote
Navigate to Settings → Connection → Bluetooth
Turn Bluetooth On
Select "Equipment Management" or "Add Device"
Put your speaker in pairing mode
Select your speaker from the detected devices list
Hisense Roku TV:
Go to Settings → Remotes & Devices
Select "Wireless Speakers" or "Bluetooth"
Choose "Add new wireless speaker"
Put your Bluetooth speaker in pairing mode
Select your speaker when it appears
Hisense Google TV:
Navigate to Settings → Remote & Accessories
Select "Pair remote or accessory"
Ensure your Bluetooth speaker is in pairing mode
Choose your speaker from the list
Hisense Fire TV:
Press Home, then navigate to Settings
Select "Controllers & Bluetooth Devices"
Choose "Other Bluetooth Devices"
Select "Add Bluetooth Devices"
Put your speaker in pairing mode and select it
Hisense Android TV:
Go to Settings → Remote & Accessories
Select "Add accessory"
Put your speaker in pairing mode
Select your speaker when detected
Bluetooth audio typically has 100-300ms of delay, which creates noticeable lip sync issues during video playback. Some higher-end speakers support aptX Low Latency or similar codecs that reduce delay, but most Hisense TVs don't support these advanced codecs.
For video watching, I strongly recommend HDMI ARC or optical connections. Reserve Bluetooth for music listening or situations where audio-video sync isn't critical.
If you're experiencing audio delay with Bluetooth speakers, switching to a wired connection is the most reliable fix. Check our guide on hisense bluetooth audio delay for additional workarounds.
If your Hisense TV lacks Bluetooth, you can add it with a Bluetooth transmitter:
Purchase a Bluetooth transmitter (available from $15-40)
Connect the transmitter to your TV's optical output or 3.5mm headphone jack
Pair your Bluetooth speaker with the transmitter
This workaround adds one more device to manage but enables wireless audio on any TV with audio outputs.
For first-time Hisense TV owners who need help with initial configuration, our getting started with hisense guide covers the complete setup process.
Analog connections aren't glamorous, but they're straightforward and work with virtually any powered speaker or audio system. This method makes sense if you're using older equipment without digital inputs.
Many Hisense TVs include a 3.5mm audio output that works for both headphones and powered speakers.
Connection steps:
Locate the 3.5mm port on your TV (usually on the side or back panel)
Connect a 3.5mm audio cable from the TV to your powered speakers' auxiliary input
Power on your speakers and select the correct input
Adjust TV volume - the 3.5mm output level follows the TV's volume control
Important: Plugging into the 3.5mm jack typically mutes the TV's internal speakers automatically.
Some Hisense models (particularly older ones) include RCA audio outputs - the familiar red and white connectors.
Connection steps:
Connect a stereo RCA cable (red and white connectors) from your TV's audio output to your amplifier or powered speakers
Match the colors: red to red, white to white
Select the appropriate input on your audio equipment
If your TV has a 3.5mm output but your audio system only accepts RCA, use a 3.5mm-to-RCA adapter cable.
Analog connections only deliver stereo audio - no surround sound, no Dolby Digital. Sound quality depends heavily on your cable quality and the noise floor of your audio equipment. For casual listening through computer speakers or an older stereo receiver, analog works fine.
If you're having trouble getting adequate volume through the 3.5mm output, explore the options in our increase hisense volume guide.
A full home theater setup with an AV receiver and multiple speakers delivers the most immersive audio experience, but it requires more careful configuration than a simple soundbar connection.
In a typical home theater setup, audio flows from your TV to an AV receiver, which then distributes sound to your speakers:
TV → HDMI ARC/eARC → AV Receiver → Speakers (5.1, 7.1, or Atmos configuration)
The TV serves as your content source (streaming apps, cable box, gaming console connected to TV), and the receiver handles audio decoding and amplification. This differs from setups where all devices connect directly to the receiver - the ARC approach keeps your TV's HDMI ports available for other devices.
You have two approaches for home theater audio:
Option A: Stream through TV apps (ARC/eARC)
Use Netflix, Disney+, etc. directly on your Hisense TV
Audio returns to receiver via ARC/eARC
Simpler cable management
Requires eARC for Dolby Atmos from streaming
Option B: Stream through external device to receiver
Use Apple TV, Roku, or similar connected directly to receiver
Receiver passes video to TV while keeping audio
Guaranteed format support
More complex setup but more reliable audio
Connect an HDMI cable from your TV's ARC port to your receiver's "HDMI OUT (ARC)" or "Monitor Out" port
Enable CEC on both devices (called different names by different brands: Yamaha calls it "HDMI Control," Denon uses "HDMI CEC," Sony uses "BRAVIA Sync")
Set your TV's audio output to ARC
Configure your receiver to listen on its ARC input
For lossless surround sound formats like Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio (and for Dolby Atmos from streaming apps), you need eARC:
Verify both your TV and receiver support eARC
Use an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable
Enable eARC in your TV's settings (usually found under Sound → Audio Output → eARC)
Enable eARC on your receiver
Audio Format Support Comparison
Format | ARC Support | eARC Support | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
Dolby Digital | Yes | Yes | Standard surround |
DTS | Yes | Yes | Standard surround |
Dolby Digital Plus | Limited | Yes | Streaming Atmos carrier |
Dolby TrueHD | No | Yes | Blu-ray lossless |
DTS-HD MA | No | Yes | Blu-ray lossless |
Dolby Atmos | Via DD+ only | Full support | Object-based audio |
If your receiver lacks HDMI ARC, use optical:
Connect optical cable from TV to receiver's optical input
Set TV audio output to Optical
Configure audio format as PCM or Bitstream (Dolby Digital/DTS)
Optical works well for 5.1 content but can't deliver Atmos or lossless formats.
Denon/Marantz receivers: Enable "HDMI Control" in the receiver's settings. The ARC input is typically "HDMI Monitor Out." Set "TV Audio Switching" to Auto for the smoothest experience.
Yamaha receivers: Enable "HDMI Control" in the Setup menu. Look for "ARC" setting and ensure it's On. Some models require you to assign the ARC input manually.
Sony receivers: Enable "Control for HDMI" in settings. BRAVIA Sync must be active. Sony receivers generally have excellent compatibility with Hisense TVs.
Onkyo receivers: Enable "HDMI CEC" in the Hardware Setup menu. Some users report that setting audio output to "Auto" rather than "Passthrough" on the Hisense TV resolves eARC disconnection issues with Onkyo receivers.
Receiver switches inputs unexpectedly: CEC can cause input switching when you don't want it. Some users prefer to disable CEC on the receiver and control input selection manually, using only optical for TV audio.
Only getting stereo instead of surround: Check that your receiver's input is set to receive multichannel audio, and verify your Hisense TV's Digital Audio Out is set to "Bitstream" or "Pass Through" rather than "PCM."
Audio cuts out intermittently: This often indicates a marginal eARC connection. Try disabling eARC and using standard ARC, or switch to optical as a more stable alternative.
For detailed surround sound configuration options, see our guide on hisense surround sound setup.
Once your speakers are physically connected, proper audio settings determine whether you get mediocre sound or the best your equipment can deliver.
VIDAA: Home → Settings → Sound Roku TV: Home → Settings → Audio Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → Sound Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio Android TV: Settings → Device Preferences → Sound
Audio Output Selection: Choose your connected output type - TV Speakers, ARC, Optical, or Bluetooth. The TV won't automatically switch in all cases, so verify this is set correctly.
Digital Audio Output Format:
Auto: Let the TV negotiate with your sound system (start here)
PCM: Maximum compatibility, but limits surround sound
Pass Through: Best for Dolby Atmos systems - sends audio unchanged
Dolby Digital/DTS: Forces specific format
Lip Sync / Audio Delay: If audio arrives before or after video, adjust this slider. Increase the value if audio comes before the picture; decrease if audio is delayed. Most users should start at 0 and adjust only if needed.
eARC Toggle: On TVs with eARC, this setting enables or disables the enhanced audio return channel. Turn it on for Atmos soundbars and capable receivers.
CEC/HDMI Control: Must be enabled for ARC to function and for your TV remote to control soundbar volume.
Most Hisense TVs offer multiple sound modes. While these primarily affect the TV's internal speakers, some settings carry over to external audio:
Standard: Balanced audio for general viewing
Theater/Movie: Enhanced bass and surround effects for films
Music: Optimized frequency response for music playback
Sport: Enhanced crowd noise and commentary clarity
Night Mode: Compressed dynamic range - quieter explosions, louder dialogue - perfect for late-night viewing without disturbing others
Dialogue/Speech: Boosts midrange frequencies for clearer speech
When using external speakers through ARC or optical, your soundbar handles most processing. However, Night Mode on the TV can still help compress dynamics before the signal reaches your soundbar.
Hisense TVs include a basic equalizer for fine-tuning audio:
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Equalizer (or Advanced Settings → Equalizer)
Adjust frequency bands: Bass (low), Midrange (mid), Treble (high)
Boost bass for more impact in movies
Boost treble if dialogue sounds muffled
Reset to default if adjustments sound worse
For Soundbars (Most Users):
Audio Output: ARC
Digital Audio Out: Auto or Pass Through (if Atmos-capable)
Lip Sync: 0 (adjust if needed)
CEC: On
For AV Receivers:
Audio Output: ARC
Digital Audio Out: Pass Through
eARC: On (if available)
Lip Sync: 0
For Bluetooth Headphones:
Audio Output: Bluetooth
Keep other settings at default
For gaming-specific audio optimization, see our guide on hisense tv game mode settings, which reduce input lag that can affect audio sync. And for complete TV optimization, our hisense tv picture settings guide complements audio configuration.
When your speakers connect but produce no sound, work through this systematic diagnostic process before assuming hardware failure.
Check volume and mute status:
Press Volume Up on your TV remote
Look for a mute icon (🔇) on screen - press Mute to toggle off
Check your soundbar's volume separately if it has independent control
Verify audio output setting: Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and confirm it's set to your connection type (ARC, Optical, or Bluetooth). TVs sometimes reset this setting after updates or power outages.
Confirm cable connections: Reseat both ends of your HDMI or optical cable. A loose connection is surprisingly common. For optical, verify you see a faint red light emitting from the TV's port.
This solves more audio problems than any other step:
Turn off the TV and soundbar
Unplug both from power
Wait 60 full seconds (not 30 - components need time to fully discharge)
Plug the TV back in first, then the soundbar
Power both devices on
HDMI ARC Issues:
Enable CEC Control and run device detection (see HDMI ARC section above)
Try a different HDMI cable - cheap cables often cause ARC problems
Verify you're using the correct HDMI port (labeled ARC)
Disable eARC if using standard ARC equipment
Optical Issues:
Check that the red light is visible in the TV's optical port
Verify TV speakers are set to Off or External
Try PCM audio format instead of Auto or Bitstream
Inspect the optical cable for damage - these cables are fragile
Bluetooth Issues:
Unpair and re-pair the device
Move the speaker closer to the TV (within 30 feet)
Disconnect other Bluetooth devices that might be paired
Restart both TV and speaker
Test with built-in speakers: Temporarily switch audio output back to TV speakers. If you hear sound, the issue is with the external connection, not the TV's audio processing.
Try a different input source: If sound fails only with streaming apps but works with HDMI inputs (like a cable box), the problem may be app-specific. Try a different streaming service or input device.
Check for audio format compatibility: Some older soundbars can't decode certain audio formats. If a specific show or movie has no sound but others work, the content may use an unsupported format. Switch Digital Audio Output to PCM as a test.
Factory reset as last resort: If nothing else works, a factory reset can resolve deep software issues. Navigate to Settings → System → Reset and follow the prompts. Note that this erases all your settings and installed apps.
For additional troubleshooting steps, including checking if the issue is app-related, see our guide on check internet connection for streaming problems. Software issues can sometimes manifest as audio problems with specific apps.
Always verify you have the latest software by checking for how to update hisense firmware, as audio bugs are frequently addressed in updates.
For basic cable troubleshooting procedures, our guide on check cable connections covers systematic verification methods.
HDMI ARC problems are frustrating because the technology involves multiple components that must communicate correctly. Here's the proven solution that resolves most ARC issues.
This method has been verified by numerous users across forums and support communities:
Press Menu on your Hisense remote
Navigate to Settings
Select System
Choose HDMI & CEC Functions (or "HDMI CEC" depending on model)
Turn CEC Control to On
Scroll down to CEC Device Lists
Select Detect
Your soundbar should respond - it may light up, display a message, or briefly power cycle. This detection process establishes the communication handshake that ARC requires.
After detection completes, go to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and select ARC.
Try a different HDMI cable: Not all HDMI cables support ARC reliably, even if they're technically rated for it. Use a certified High Speed HDMI cable (for ARC) or Ultra High Speed cable (for eARC).
Use a different HDMI port temporarily: Connect to a non-ARC HDMI port briefly, then switch back to the ARC port. This can reset the TV's HDMI detection.
Disable eARC: If your soundbar only supports standard ARC (not eARC), having eARC enabled on the TV can cause communication failures. Try disabling eARC in your TV's audio settings.
Check soundbar input: Ensure your soundbar is set to its ARC/TV input. Many soundbars have multiple inputs and won't receive ARC audio if set to Bluetooth or HDMI In.
If ARC refuses to work despite troubleshooting, optical is your reliable alternative. There's no quality loss for standard Dolby Digital content, and optical connections don't depend on CEC configuration.
Some device combinations simply have CEC compatibility issues. Using optical sidesteps the problem entirely.
To maintain a stable ARC connection:
Avoid daisy-chaining multiple HDMI devices through your soundbar
Keep firmware updated on both TV and soundbar
Use quality HDMI cables - cheap cables degrade over time
Don't unplug the soundbar frequently - CEC handshakes can become corrupted
Power on devices in order - turn on the soundbar first, then the TV
Audio-video sync problems turn entertainment into an annoyance. Mouths move but words arrive late. Explosions happen after the flash. Here's how to fix it.
Audio delay occurs because video and audio signals process at different speeds:
Video processing (motion smoothing, HDR tone mapping) adds delay to the picture
External audio equipment adds its own processing time
Bluetooth transmission inherently delays audio by 100-300ms
The result is audio that arrives before or after the video action.
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Advanced Settings (or Sound → Advanced Audio)
Find "Lip Sync," "Audio Delay," or "AV Sync"
Play content with clearly visible speech
Adjust the slider in small increments (typically 10ms per step)
Increase the delay value if audio comes before video
Decrease if audio comes after video
Finding the right setting: Use content with clear, visible speaking - news anchors or dialogue scenes work well. Adjust until the speaker's lips match the words you hear.
Different connections have different inherent delays:
Connection | Typical Latency | Sync Difficulty |
|---|---|---|
HDMI ARC | 10-30ms | Usually manageable |
HDMI eARC | 5-20ms | Usually manageable |
Optical | 10-30ms | Usually manageable |
Bluetooth | 100-300ms | Often problematic |
If Bluetooth delay is unbearable, switch to a wired connection. No amount of software adjustment can fully compensate for significant Bluetooth latency.
Disable video processing: Motion smoothing and other video enhancements add delay. Try enabling Game Mode for lowest latency - it disables most processing. See our hisense tv game mode guide for details.
Change audio format to PCM: Complex audio formats require more decoding time. Setting Digital Audio Output to PCM reduces processing overhead, which can help sync issues.
Adjust soundbar delay settings: Many soundbars have their own lip sync or audio delay adjustment. Check your soundbar's settings menu or remote for an "Audio Sync," "Lip Sync," or "Delay" option. Adjusting this in combination with the TV's setting gives you finer control.
Check your streaming device: If you're using an external streaming device (Roku, Apple TV, Fire Stick), it may have its own audio delay settings. Check the device's audio settings for lip sync or audio delay options.
Power cycle everything: Audio sync can drift over time due to software glitches. A full power cycle (unplug for 60 seconds) resets timing on both TV and audio equipment.
Update all firmware: Check for updates on both your TV and soundbar. Manufacturers frequently address sync issues in firmware updates.
If you've tried everything and lip sync remains problematic:
Try a different connection method - switch from ARC to optical or vice versa
Test with different content - some streaming services have worse sync than others
Connect source devices directly to your soundbar - this bypasses TV processing entirely
Consider a dedicated audio delay device - hardware units like the Felston DD740 provide precise delay adjustment
You can connect virtually any soundbar to a Hisense TV, but some options integrate more seamlessly than others. Here are recommendations across price tiers.
Hisense HS205 2.0 Soundbar (~$80)
Designed specifically for Hisense TVs
HDMI ARC, optical, and Bluetooth connections
"Roku Ready" for seamless Roku TV integration
Compact at 37 inches wide
Limitation: No subwoofer, limited bass
Hisense A620 2.1 Soundbar (~$130)
Built-in subwoofer for improved bass
240W total power
DTS Virtual:X for virtual surround
HDMI ARC support
Hisense HS218 2.1 Soundbar (~$150)
Wireless subwoofer included
HDMI ARC with Roku Ready compatibility
Three sound modes (Movie, Music, News)
Solid choice for matching brands
Samsung HW-B550 2.1 Soundbar (~$180)
Wireless subwoofer
DTS Virtual:X
Excellent compatibility with Hisense TVs via ARC
Strong bass performance
Vizio V-Series 5.1 System (~$250)
Full 5.1 surround with wireless rear speakers
DTS:X and Dolby Audio
Good value for surround sound
Hisense AX5125H 5.1.2 System (~$350)
Soundbar, wireless subwoofer, and rear speakers
Dolby Atmos support
Exceptional value for Atmos capability
What Hi-Fi? "Best Budget Soundbar Package" award
Sony HT-Z9F 3.1 Soundbar (~$500)
Dolby Atmos and DTS:X
Vertical surround engine
Optional rear speakers for full surround
Excellent dialogue clarity
Samsung HW-Q990F System (~$1,300)
Full 11.1.4 Dolby Atmos
Wireless subwoofer and rear speakers
Premium audio quality
Top-tier home theater performance
While you can pair Bluetooth speakers with Hisense TVs, they're not ideal for video watching due to latency issues. Consider Bluetooth speakers for music listening only, and use wired connections for TV viewing.
Match your soundbar to your TV size for balanced aesthetics and optimal sound:
TV Size | Recommended Soundbar Width |
|---|---|
43-50" | 32-36" soundbar |
55" | 36-40" soundbar |
65" | 40-48" soundbar |
75-85" | 48-54" soundbar |
A soundbar wider than your TV can work acoustically but may look awkward. A soundbar narrower than your TV is generally fine.
Center the soundbar directly under or in front of your TV
Don't block the IR sensor - if mounting below the TV, ensure the soundbar doesn't block the TV's remote sensor
Leave space behind the soundbar if it has rear-firing speakers or a bass port
Wall mounting keeps surfaces clear but may reduce bass response compared to placing on furniture
Avoid enclosed cabinets - soundbars need room to breathe for proper bass performance
If your soundbar includes a wireless subwoofer:
Corner placement maximizes bass but can sound boomy
Along the front wall provides balanced bass
Experiment with position - move the subwoofer and listen from your seating position
Keep it away from walls (6-12 inches) to reduce excessive bass resonance
For more options and detailed connection instructions specific to soundbars, see our guide on best soundbar for hisense.
Each Hisense operating system organizes settings slightly differently. Here's a quick reference for audio configuration on each platform.
Common on: A6 series, U6 series, U7 series (varies by region)
Audio settings path: Home → Settings → Sound
Key locations:
Audio Output: Sound → Speakers
Digital Format: Sound → Advanced Settings → Digital Audio Output
CEC Settings: System → HDMI & CEC
VIDAA quirks:
Some remotes have a dedicated Sound button that cycles through modes
ARC may be listed under "Speakers" as "ARC" or "External"
Common on: R6, R7, R8 series
Audio settings path: Home → Settings → Audio
Key locations:
Audio Output: Audio → Audio Mode
Digital Format: Audio → Digital Output Format
CEC Settings: System → Control other devices (CEC)
Roku TV quirks:
"Private Listening" feature routes audio to the Roku app
Volume Mode helps prevent loud commercials
System audio control must be enabled for soundbar volume control
For users needing help with Roku-specific setup, our hisense roku tv setup guide covers the complete process.
Common on: U7 series, U8 series (newer models)
Audio settings path: Settings → Display & Sound → Sound
Key locations:
Audio Output: Display & Sound → Audio Output
Digital Format: Display & Sound → Audio Output → Digital Audio Out
CEC Settings: Display & Sound → HDMI-CEC
Google TV quirks:
Menu structure feels more technical than other platforms
Advanced Settings contains equalizer and Atmos toggle
May require firmware update for latest audio features
Common on: A4H, A6H series
Audio settings path: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio
Key locations:
Audio Output: Display & Sounds → Audio → Output Selection
Digital Format: Display & Sounds → Audio → Surround Sound
CEC Settings: Display & Sounds → HDMI CEC
Fire TV quirks:
Integrates with Alexa for voice volume control
Audio Test function helps diagnose speaker issues
Compatible with Echo devices for multi-room audio
For app installation help on any platform, see our hisense vidaa app install guide.
If you're unsure which OS your Hisense TV runs:
Look at the home screen: Roku shows a purple-accented grid, Google TV shows streaming recommendations in a horizontal layout, Fire TV shows an Amazon-centric interface with Alexa integration, and VIDAA displays a Hisense-branded interface.
Check the remote: Roku remotes have dedicated streaming buttons (Netflix, Disney+, etc.) with a purple design. Fire TV remotes feature an Alexa voice button. Google TV remotes have a Google Assistant button.
Check Settings → About: This displays the operating system name and version number.
Hisense model numbers indicate the TV's features:
First number: Screen size (55, 65, 75, etc.)
Letter: Series (A = entry level, R = Roku, U = ULED premium)
Numbers after letter: Year and feature set
Example: 65U8N = 65-inch U8 series, N = 2024 model year
Yes. Soundbars from Samsung, Sony, Bose, Vizio, JBL, and other brands work with Hisense TVs. The key is matching connection types - if your soundbar has HDMI ARC, use that. If it only has optical input, use optical. No brand lock-in exists for audio equipment. Hisense-branded soundbars like the HS218 offer seamless "Roku Ready" integration with Hisense Roku TVs, but third-party soundbars work just as well technically.
Standard High-Speed HDMI cables work for ARC. Most cables made after 2010 qualify. For eARC, which supports higher-bandwidth formats like Dolby Atmos, use an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable. The cable doesn't need any special labeling for ARC specifically - it's a feature of the HDMI spec that any compliant cable supports.
This typically happens when CEC loses communication with your soundbar. Common causes include: CEC control getting disabled (check settings after updates), power loss to the soundbar, or flaky HDMI connections. Enable CEC, verify cable connections, and ensure your soundbar stays powered. Some users report that setting audio output to "Auto" instead of explicitly selecting ARC causes switching - try selecting ARC directly.
Most Hisense TVs output to one destination at a time - when you select external speakers, TV speakers mute. A few models allow simultaneous output to headphones and TV speakers, but soundbar plus TV speakers simultaneously isn't typically supported. Using both would create confusing echo effects anyway.
Yes, but only through eARC connections. Standard ARC and optical cannot carry Dolby Atmos due to bandwidth limitations. Connect your Atmos soundbar or receiver to your TV's eARC port, enable eARC in settings, and set Digital Audio Output to "Pass Through." Atmos from streaming apps like Netflix and Disney+ will then pass through to your sound system. For keeping tv up to date with latest features, regularly check for firmware updates.
Enable CEC/HDMI Control on both your TV and soundbar. With CEC active, your TV remote's volume buttons control the soundbar automatically. If volume control isn't working, re-run device detection in your TV's HDMI-CEC settings. Some soundbars require their own CEC setting to be enabled - check your soundbar's manual.
Hisense TVs typically support one active Bluetooth audio connection at a time. You can pair multiple devices (the TV remembers them), but only one can output audio simultaneously. To switch devices, disconnect the current one and connect another from the Bluetooth menu.
CEC implementations vary between TV brands. Try these fixes: enable CEC and run device detection, switch from ARC to optical connection, change audio output format from Auto to PCM, and update both TV and soundbar firmware. Some older soundbars have compatibility quirks with newer TV CEC implementations - optical bypasses these issues entirely.
Connecting external speakers to your Hisense TV transforms your viewing experience from acceptable to genuinely enjoyable. For most users, I recommend starting with HDMI ARC - it offers the best balance of audio quality, convenience, and single-remote operation. If ARC proves finicky with your equipment, optical provides reliable digital audio without the CEC complexity.
Whatever connection method you choose, proper configuration in your TV's sound settings ensures you're getting the audio quality your equipment can deliver. Take a few minutes to verify your audio output selection, digital audio format, and CEC settings - these details make the difference between mediocre sound and the immersive audio experience you're looking for.
Your Situation | Best Method | Why |
|---|---|---|
New soundbar with HDMI ARC | HDMI ARC | Single cable, remote control works |
Premium soundbar with Atmos | HDMI eARC | Full Atmos support |
Older soundbar, no ARC | Optical | Reliable digital audio |
Wireless headphones | Bluetooth | Convenience for private listening |
Vintage speakers/stereo | 3.5mm or RCA | Analog compatibility |
ARC keeps disconnecting | Optical | Bypass CEC issues |
Remember that external speakers dramatically improve TV audio regardless of your budget. Even a $100 soundbar outperforms the speakers built into any flat-panel TV. The investment pays off every time you watch a movie, stream a show, or game late into the night.
If you run into issues not covered here, Hisense customer support (1-888-935-8880 for US) can help with model-specific questions, and most soundbar manufacturers offer dedicated support for connection problems. Don't hesitate to reach out - getting your audio working correctly is worth the effort.