Master your Hisense TV sound settings with our comprehensive guide. Learn optimal audio configurations, equalizer settings, Dolby Atmos setup, soundbar connections, and troubleshooting for all Hisense models including Roku, Google TV, VIDAA, and Fire TV.

You just upgraded to a gorgeous Hisense TV with a stunning picture—but the audio sounds thin, distant, or just... off. You're not imagining it. Out of the box, Hisense TVs ship with conservative audio settings that rarely deliver their full potential.
The good news? Your Hisense TV likely supports Dolby Atmos, DTS, multiple sound modes, and a fully customizable equalizer. The challenge is that Hisense makes TVs running four different operating systems—Roku TV, Google TV, VIDAA, and Fire TV—each with its own menu structure and audio options.
This guide covers every Hisense platform and every 2024-2025 model, from budget A-series to premium U8N and U9N sets. Whether you're trying to optimize dialogue clarity for late-night viewing, configure the perfect gaming audio setup, or troubleshoot why your TV suddenly has no sound, you'll find specific, actionable settings here.
What you'll accomplish in the next 15 minutes:
Access your TV's sound settings regardless of which operating system you have
Choose the right sound mode for movies, gaming, music, and sports
Configure equalizer settings that actually improve your audio
Connect and optimize a soundbar using HDMI ARC or eARC
Fix common problems like muffled dialogue, audio delay, and no sound
Let's get your Hisense TV sounding the way it should.
Before adjusting anything, you need to find your TV's audio menu—and the path varies significantly depending on which operating system your Hisense runs. The fastest way to identify your OS is to look at your home screen: Google TV shows a row of apps with a "For You" tab, Roku TV displays a purple-accented grid, VIDAA has a clean horizontal menu with a dedicated remote button, and Fire TV features Amazon's orange-highlighted interface.
Once you know your platform, follow the specific path below.
Hisense Roku TVs use Roku's streamlined interface, making audio settings straightforward to access.
Press the Home button on your remote
Scroll down and select Settings (gear icon)
Navigate to Audio
You'll see options for Audio Mode, Volume Mode, and Audio Output
The Audio menu on Roku TV includes several key sections. Audio Mode controls whether you're outputting Stereo, Dolby Digital, or DTS. Volume Mode offers leveling options to prevent commercials from blasting louder than your show. Audio Output determines whether sound goes to TV speakers, HDMI ARC, or headphones.
For quick access, some Hisense Roku remotes have a dedicated asterisk (*) button that opens audio options while content is playing.
Hisense Google TV models (including the U7N, U8N, and U9N series) use Android's settings structure.
Press the Settings button on your remote (or navigate to the gear icon)
Select Display & Sound
Choose Sound
Select Sound Mode or Advanced Settings for deeper control
Within Advanced Settings, you'll find the equalizer, Dolby Atmos toggle, dialogue enhancement, and digital audio output options. The menu structure feels more technical than Roku's, but offers finer control.
Google TV also lets you access sound settings during playback by pressing the Settings button and selecting the speaker icon.
VIDAA is Hisense's proprietary smart TV platform, found on many A-series and some international models.
Press the Home or Menu button
Select the Settings gear icon
Navigate to Sound
Choose from Sound Mode, Equalizer, or Advanced Audio Settings
VIDAA organizes audio into logical categories. Sound Mode offers presets like Standard, Theater, Music, Speech, and Late Night. The Equalizer provides five-band control. Advanced Audio Settings houses dialogue enhancement, surround sound, and output options.
Many VIDAA remotes include a dedicated Sound button that cycles through modes without entering menus—handy for quick adjustments.
Hisense Fire TV models (including the U6N series for 2025) use Amazon's interface.
Press the Home button and navigate to Settings (gear icon at far right)
Select Display & Sounds
Choose Audio
Access Audio Format, Audio Output, and Advanced Audio
Fire TV's audio menu emphasizes compatibility with Echo devices and Alexa. You'll find options for Dolby Digital output, surround sound, and dialogue enhancement alongside standard TV audio controls.
For troubleshooting, Fire TV includes a useful Audio Test function under Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Audio Test.
Operating System | Settings Path | Remote Shortcut |
|---|---|---|
Roku TV | Home → Settings → Audio | * button during playback |
Google TV | Settings → Display & Sound → Sound | Settings button → speaker icon |
VIDAA | Home → Settings → Sound | Sound button (if available) |
Fire TV | Home → Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio | Alexa voice command |
If your sound settings appear greyed out or inaccessible, check whether you have external audio connected—some options disable when the TV detects a soundbar or receiver.
Every Hisense TV includes preset sound modes designed to optimize audio for different content types. Understanding what each mode actually does—not just what it's named—helps you make better choices.
Standard Mode provides the most neutral audio profile. The TV applies minimal processing, keeping bass, mids, and treble balanced. This mode works well for news, talk shows, and general browsing where you want clear, uncolored sound. When you're unsure which mode to choose, Standard is the safest default.
Theater Mode (sometimes called Movie Mode) enhances the cinematic experience. The TV boosts bass frequencies for impact during explosions and action sequences, widens the perceived soundstage, and may enable Dolby or DTS processing if available. This mode can make dialogue slightly harder to hear during quiet scenes—a tradeoff worth knowing about.
Music Mode prioritizes frequency accuracy over effects. The equalizer flattens to reproduce recordings more faithfully, and surround processing typically disables. Musicians and audiophiles often prefer this mode because it doesn't artificially color the sound. If TV speakers sound harsh with Music mode, your room acoustics may be reflecting high frequencies.
Speech Mode (also called News or Clear Voice) boosts mid-range frequencies where human voice lives—roughly 1kHz to 4kHz. Background sounds and bass get reduced, making dialogue cut through more clearly. This mode works excellently for news broadcasts, podcasts, and dialogue-heavy dramas.
Sports Mode balances commentary clarity with crowd atmosphere. The TV preserves announcer intelligibility while allowing stadium ambiance to feel immersive. Some models add a slight reverb effect to simulate arena acoustics.
Game Mode prioritizes low latency over audio quality. The TV reduces audio processing to minimize the delay between on-screen action and corresponding sound—critical for competitive gaming where milliseconds matter. Audio quality may sound slightly thinner because the TV bypasses enhancement features to speed up output.
Night Mode (sometimes called Late Night) compresses dynamic range, bringing loud sounds down and quiet sounds up. Explosions won't wake sleeping family members, but you'll still hear dialogue clearly. This mode works brilliantly for late-night movie watching but can make action scenes feel less impactful.
Sound Mode | Bass | Mids | Treble | Best For | Avoid When |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Standard | Neutral | Neutral | Neutral | General TV, news, browsing | Wanting cinematic impact |
Theater | Boosted | Slightly reduced | Enhanced | Movies, streaming shows | Late-night viewing |
Music | Accurate | Prominent | Crisp | Concerts, music videos | Action movies |
Speech | Reduced | Boosted | Neutral | News, documentaries, podcasts | Music, gaming |
Sports | Moderate | Clear | Moderate | Live sports, racing | Quiet dramas |
Game | Variable | Variable | Variable | Gaming (low latency priority) | Movies, music |
Night | Compressed | Boosted | Reduced | Late-night watching | Daytime action movies |
To change sound modes quickly, navigate to Settings → Sound → Sound Mode and select your preference. The TV saves mode selections per input, so your gaming console can use Game Mode while your streaming apps use Theater Mode automatically.
Generic "best settings" recommendations rarely work because optimal audio depends entirely on what you're watching. Here are specific configurations for movies, gaming, music, and sports—each tested to deliver noticeably better results than defaults.
Movies demand the most from your TV's audio system. You want impactful bass during action sequences, clear dialogue during quiet conversations, and an immersive soundstage that pulls you into the story.
Recommended configuration:
Sound Mode: Theater or Movie
Dialogue Enhancement: Medium or High
Surround Sound/Virtual Surround: ON
Bass Boost: +2 to +4 (adjust based on content)
Dolby Atmos: ON (if available and content supports it)
Night Mode: OFF (unless watching late at night)
For dialogue-heavy dramas where you're straining to hear conversations, boost the 1.5kHz equalizer band by +2 or +3. This frequency range contains the fundamental tones of human speech.
If explosions and sound effects overwhelm dialogue, enable Auto Volume Control or Volume Leveling—these features compress dynamic range so quiet scenes don't disappear after loud ones.
Gaming audio priorities differ from movies. Competitive players need low latency to react to audio cues. Immersive single-player games benefit from spatial audio that lets you locate enemies by sound.
Recommended configuration:
Sound Mode: Game (essential for reducing audio delay)
Auto Low Latency Mode (ALLM): Enabled
Dialogue Enhancement: OFF or Low (can add processing delay)
Surround Sound: Personal preference (immersive gaming = ON, competitive = OFF)
Bass Boost: +1 to +2 (excessive bass masks footstep audio)
Dolby Atmos: OFF for competitive, ON for single-player immersion
For competitive shooters like Call of Duty or Fortnite, disable all audio processing and keep the equalizer flat. You want to hear footsteps accurately, not enhanced. Some players boost 5kHz slightly (+1 to +2) to make high-frequency sounds like footsteps and reloads more prominent.
For immersive single-player games like God of War or Zelda, enable surround sound and Dolby Atmos for the full cinematic experience. These games prioritize atmosphere over competitive advantage.
Console-specific note: PS5 and Xbox Series X can output 3D audio that conflicts with TV processing. When using Sony's Tempest Audio or Microsoft's spatial sound, set your TV's digital audio output to Passthrough to avoid double-processing.
Music listening benefits from accuracy over enhancement:
Sound Mode: Music
Surround Sound: OFF (preserves stereo imaging)
Equalizer: Flat or slight bass boost (+2 at 100Hz)
Auto Volume: OFF (preserves dynamic range)
Dialogue Enhancement: OFF
If your TV speakers sound thin with music, try boosting both 100Hz (bass) and 10kHz (treble/air) by +2 each. This creates a gentle "smile curve" that adds warmth and sparkle without coloring the mids where vocals live.
Sports broadcasts require different treatment:
Sound Mode: Sports or Standard
Surround Sound: ON (enhances crowd atmosphere)
Dialogue Enhancement: Low to Medium (keeps commentary clear)
Bass Boost: Neutral (excessive bass muddles crowd noise)
Content Type | Sound Mode | Surround | Dialogue Enhance | Bass | Atmos |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Action Movies | Theater | ON | Medium | +3 | ON |
Drama/Dialogue | Theater | ON | High | 0 | ON |
Competitive Gaming | Game | OFF | OFF | 0 | OFF |
Single-Player Gaming | Game | ON | Low | +2 | ON |
Music | Music | OFF | OFF | +2 | OFF |
Sports | Sports | ON | Medium | 0 | ON |
Late Night | Night | ON | High | -2 | ON |
The equalizer gives you surgical control over your TV's audio—but most people either ignore it or make it worse by boosting everything. Here's how to use it effectively.
Hisense TVs typically offer a 5-band equalizer controlling these frequency ranges:
100Hz (Bass/Sub-bass): The foundation of sound. Controls rumble, explosions, bass drums, and deep musical tones. Boosting adds impact and warmth; too much creates muddy, boomy audio that overwhelms everything else.
500Hz (Low-mids): The "body" of sound. Contains warmth and fullness in voices and instruments. Too much sounds boxy and muddy; too little sounds thin and hollow.
1.5kHz (Mids): The critical voice range. Human speech fundamentals live here. Boosting improves dialogue clarity; excessive boosting sounds nasal and harsh.
5kHz (Presence/Upper-mids): Detail and clarity. Contains consonants, guitar pick attack, and snare drum snap. Boosting adds definition and "edge"; too much sounds piercing and fatiguing.
10kHz (Treble/Air): Sparkle and brightness. Contains cymbal shimmer, breath sounds, and high harmonics. Boosting adds brilliance and openness; excessive boosting sounds harsh and sibilant (hissy "S" sounds).
These presets give you starting points for different listening scenarios. Adjust based on your room acoustics and personal preference.
Balanced/Neutral Preset:
100Hz: 0
500Hz: 0
1.5kHz: +2
5kHz: +1
10kHz: 0
This preset works well for most content. The slight mid-range boost improves dialogue intelligibility without coloring the overall sound.
Bass-Heavy Preset (Action Movies/Gaming):
100Hz: +4
500Hz: +2
1.5kHz: 0
5kHz: 0
10kHz: -1
Emphasizes low-end impact for explosions and effects. The slight treble reduction prevents harshness during loud scenes.
Dialogue Clarity Preset (News/Podcasts/Drama):
100Hz: -2
500Hz: 0
1.5kHz: +3
5kHz: +2
10kHz: 0
Reduces bass that can mask speech and boosts the frequency ranges where voice intelligibility lives.
Music Preset:
100Hz: +2
500Hz: 0
1.5kHz: +1
5kHz: +2
10kHz: +1
A gentle "enhanced" curve that adds bass warmth and treble sparkle while preserving natural vocal reproduction.
Boosting everything: If you raise all bands equally, you're just making the TV louder with more distortion. The equalizer shapes relative balance between frequencies—boost some, cut others.
Extreme settings: TV speakers have physical limitations. Boosting bass to +8 or +10 causes distortion, not more bass. The speakers simply can't reproduce those frequencies at high volume.
Ignoring your room: A room with hard surfaces (tile, glass) reflects high frequencies, making treble sound harsh. Cut 5kHz and 10kHz slightly. A carpeted room with soft furniture absorbs highs—boost them back.
Setting and forgetting: Different content benefits from different EQ. Action movies want more bass; documentaries need dialogue clarity. Save multiple presets if your TV allows it.
Roku TV: Settings → Audio → Sound Mode → Custom → Equalizer
Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → Sound → Advanced Settings → Equalizer
VIDAA: Settings → Sound → Equalizer
Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Equalizer (may require Sound Mode set to Custom first)
Adjust one band at a time, listening to familiar content between changes. Your ears need 10-15 seconds to adjust to new settings before you can judge them accurately.
Dolby Atmos, DTS, dialogue enhancement, and virtual surround sound can transform your TV audio—if you configure them correctly.
Yes, but support varies by model. Premium sets like the U7N, U8N, and U9N feature built-in Dolby Atmos processing with up-firing speakers that create overhead sound effects. Budget models like the A4K and A6K series can pass Atmos audio to compatible soundbars but don't process it internally.
Models with built-in Atmos processing:
U9N series (4.1.2 to 5.1.2 channel speakers)
U8N/U8QG series (2.1.2 to 4.1.2 channel speakers)
U7N series (2.1.2 channel with built-in subwoofer)
Models with Atmos passthrough only:
U6N series
A6K/A7K series
A4K series
Google TV (U7N, U8N, U9N):
Settings → Display & Sound → Sound
Select Dolby Atmos and toggle ON
For external audio, set Digital Audio Out to Passthrough
VIDAA:
Settings → Sound → Dolby Atmos → ON
For soundbars: Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings → Digital Audio Out → Passthrough
Roku TV:
Settings → Audio → Streaming Audio Format → Auto (or Dolby)
For eARC soundbars: Settings → Audio → Audio Output → Auto
Fire TV:
Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Dolby Atmos → ON
For passthrough: Set Audio Format to Auto
If Dolby Atmos appears greyed out: Your content may not include Atmos audio, or your digital audio output might be set to PCM instead of Auto or Passthrough.
True Dolby Atmos passthrough to a soundbar requires:
eARC connection (enhanced Audio Return Channel)—standard ARC limits bandwidth and may downgrade Atmos to Dolby Digital Plus
High-speed HDMI 2.1 cable connecting TV to soundbar
Digital Audio Out set to Passthrough (not PCM or Dolby Digital)
eARC enabled in your TV's HDMI settings
Connect your soundbar to the HDMI port labeled "eARC" (usually HDMI 1 or HDMI 3 depending on model).
Dialogue Enhancement/Clear Voice: Boosts mid-range frequencies to make speech more intelligible. Set to Medium for movies with busy soundtracks; High for content where you're straining to hear conversations. Disable for music.
Virtual Surround/TruSurround: Creates simulated surround sound from the TV's built-in speakers using psychoacoustic processing. Works surprisingly well for movies but can sound artificial with music. Enable for movies and gaming; disable for music.
Auto Volume Control/Volume Leveling: Prevents jarring volume changes between channels, commercials, and quiet/loud scenes. Enable for general TV watching; disable when you want full dynamic range for movies.
Wall Mount Setup: If your TV is wall-mounted, enable this option (Settings → Sound → Wall Mount Setup). The TV adjusts frequency response to compensate for sound reflecting off the wall behind it.
When connecting external audio equipment, your digital audio output setting determines what signal your soundbar or receiver receives. Choosing wrong can mean no sound, degraded quality, or disabled features.
PCM (Pulse-Code Modulation):
Uncompressed stereo audio
Universal compatibility—works with everything
Limited to 2.0 stereo (no surround sound over optical; 2.0 over ARC)
Best for: TV speakers, basic soundbars, optical connections
Dolby Digital:
Compressed 5.1 surround sound
TV decodes incoming audio and re-encodes to Dolby Digital
Works over ARC and optical
Best for: Soundbars and receivers that decode Dolby but don't support eARC
Passthrough/Auto:
Sends original audio format without processing
Preserves Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, and lossless formats
Requires compatible soundbar/receiver
Best for: eARC connections to Atmos soundbars, AV receivers
Your Setup | Recommended Setting |
|---|---|
TV speakers only | PCM or Auto |
Soundbar via optical cable | PCM (stereo) or Dolby Digital (5.1) |
Soundbar via HDMI ARC | Dolby Digital or Auto |
Atmos soundbar via eARC | Passthrough |
AV receiver via eARC | Passthrough |
Bluetooth headphones | PCM |
Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → Audio Output → Digital Audio Out
VIDAA: Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings → Digital Audio Out
Roku TV: Settings → Audio → S/PDIF and ARC → select format
Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Audio Format
No sound from soundbar: Check that Audio Output is set to ARC or External Speaker (not TV Speakers). Verify the soundbar is connected to the correct HDMI port labeled ARC/eARC.
No surround sound: If you're getting stereo only, your output may be set to PCM. Switch to Dolby Digital or Passthrough. Also verify your content actually contains surround audio—not all streams include 5.1.
Audio cuts out intermittently: Try switching from Passthrough to Dolby Digital. Some soundbars struggle with certain passthrough formats.
Atmos shows as Dolby Digital Plus: You may be using ARC instead of eARC, or your HDMI cable doesn't support the bandwidth. eARC requires HDMI 2.1 cables and both devices must have eARC enabled.
TV speakers have improved dramatically, but a soundbar still transforms your audio experience. Here's how to connect one properly and avoid common issues.
HDMI ARC/eARC (Recommended):
Single cable carries audio from TV to soundbar
Supports surround sound and Dolby Atmos (eARC)
Enables TV remote volume control
Requires CEC enabled on both devices
Optical (TOSLINK):
Reliable digital connection
Maximum 5.1 surround sound (no Atmos/DTS:X)
Good fallback when ARC causes problems
Bluetooth:
Wireless convenience
Introduces 100-200ms audio delay (lip sync issues)
Compressed audio quality
Best for casual listening only
ARC (Audio Return Channel):
Supports Dolby Digital and DTS 5.1
Can handle Dolby Digital Plus (Atmos via lossy compression)
Found on most HDMI ports labeled "ARC"
Uses standard HDMI cables
eARC (Enhanced Audio Return Channel):
Supports lossless Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio
Full Dolby Atmos and DTS:X support
Requires HDMI 2.1 port and cable
Found on one specific port labeled "eARC"
For Dolby Atmos soundbars, use eARC when available. For standard 5.1 soundbars, regular ARC works perfectly.
Locate the ARC port: Check your TV's HDMI ports for one labeled "ARC" or "eARC" (typically HDMI 1, 2, or 3 depending on model)
Connect the HDMI cable: Use a high-speed HDMI cable from your soundbar's HDMI OUT (ARC) port to your TV's HDMI ARC port
Enable CEC: Navigate to Settings → System → HDMI & CEC (or HDMI Control) and enable:
CEC Control: ON
Device Auto Power: ON (optional—soundbar powers on/off with TV)
Set audio output: Go to Settings → Sound → Audio Output (or Speakers) and select ARC or External Speaker/Soundbar
Configure digital audio format: Settings → Sound → Digital Audio Out → set to Passthrough for Atmos or Dolby Digital for 5.1
Detect the soundbar: Some TVs require manual detection. Go to Settings → System → HDMI & CEC → CEC Device List → Detect Devices
If HDMI ARC causes problems, optical provides rock-solid reliability:
Connect optical cable from TV's Digital Audio Out or Optical port to soundbar's Optical IN
Set TV audio output to SPDIF or Optical
Set digital audio format to PCM (stereo) or Dolby Digital (5.1)
Note: Optical cannot carry Dolby Atmos or DTS:X—only compressed 5.1.
No sound from soundbar:
Verify correct HDMI port (must be ARC-labeled)
Enable CEC in TV settings
Set audio output to ARC/External Speaker
Power cycle both TV and soundbar (unplug 60 seconds)
Soundbar not detected:
Navigate to CEC Device List and select "Detect"
Try a different HDMI cable
Update TV and soundbar firmware
Volume control doesn't work:
Enable CEC Device Control in TV settings
Some soundbars require "TV Control" enabled in their own settings
Intermittent audio dropouts:
Switch from Passthrough to Dolby Digital
Try a shorter, certified HDMI cable
Disable eARC and use standard ARC
Few things ruin a viewing experience like actors' lips moving out of sync with their words. Audio delay problems have multiple causes—and multiple solutions.
Bluetooth latency: Bluetooth connections introduce 100-200ms delay. Wired connections (HDMI ARC, optical) have minimal latency.
Soundbar processing delay: Soundbars that decode Dolby/DTS add processing time. The TV displays video while audio gets processed, creating desync.
Streaming app buffering: Apps sometimes buffer video and audio at different rates, especially with unstable internet.
Incorrect audio format: When your TV transcodes audio (converts between formats), it adds processing time.
Cable box issues: External devices like cable boxes can introduce their own sync problems.
Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → Sound → Advanced Settings → Lip Sync (or Digital Audio Delay)
VIDAA: Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings → Lip Sync
Roku TV: Settings → Audio → Audio Sync (if available—not all models include manual adjustment)
Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → A/V Sync Tuning
Play content with clear speech—news broadcasts or dialogue scenes work well
Watch the speaker's lips while listening to their voice
If audio comes BEFORE video: Increase the delay setting
If audio comes AFTER video: Decrease the delay (or increase video delay if available)
Adjust in small increments (10-20ms) until lips match speech
Test with multiple content sources—optimal settings may vary
Switch to PCM audio: Go to Settings → Sound → Digital Audio Out → PCM. This eliminates decoding delay at the cost of surround sound. If sync improves, the issue was format-related.
Enable Game Mode: Even for non-gaming content, Game Mode reduces processing delay. Picture quality may decrease slightly, but sync often improves.
Use HDMI ARC instead of Bluetooth: If your soundbar connects via Bluetooth, switch to HDMI ARC for significantly lower latency.
Power cycle everything: Unplug TV and soundbar for 60 seconds. Audio sync issues sometimes result from corrupted handshake data.
Update firmware: Both TV and soundbar manufacturers regularly release updates fixing sync bugs. Check Settings → Support → System Update.
Check your source device: If sync problems only occur with your cable box, the issue is the box, not the TV. Try switching the cable box's audio output from Dolby to PCM.
When your Hisense TV's audio stops working—or never worked correctly—use this systematic approach to identify and fix the issue.
Step 1: Check the obvious
Press the Mute button (you'd be surprised how often this is the culprit)
Verify volume isn't at zero
Check if audio is accidentally outputting to Bluetooth headphones
Step 2: Verify audio output setting Go to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and confirm it's set to TV Speakers (if using built-in speakers) or ARC/External (if using soundbar). A common problem: the TV connects to a previously paired Bluetooth device and routes all audio there.
Step 3: Power cycle the TV Unplug the TV from the wall (not just the power strip) for 60 seconds. This clears temporary glitches affecting audio circuits. Plug back in and test.
Step 4: Try a different input source Switch to a different HDMI input or use the TV's built-in apps. If one source has sound but another doesn't, the problem is the external device, not the TV.
Step 5: Run the sound test Navigate to Settings → Support → Self Diagnosis → Sound Test. If you hear the test tone, your speakers work—the issue is settings or source-related.
Step 6: Check for Bluetooth devices Settings → Bluetooth → Connected Devices. Disconnect any paired audio devices to ensure sound routes to TV speakers.
Muffled audio usually results from incorrect settings rather than hardware failure.
Quick fixes:
Set Sound Mode to Standard (Theater mode sometimes over-processes)
Disable Virtual Surround or TruSurround (can cause muffling on some content)
Reset equalizer to defaults
Boost 1.5kHz (mids) by +2 or +3 to bring clarity back
Reduce bass (100Hz) if dialogue sounds buried
Check for speaker obstruction: If your TV is in a cabinet or recessed space, sound may be reflecting poorly. Sound modes designed for open placement won't compensate.
When you hear music and effects but can't understand speech:
Enable Dialogue Enhancement or Clear Voice (Settings → Sound → Advanced)
Reduce bass, boost mids in the equalizer
Check if you're receiving a 5.1 signal on a stereo system—the center channel (dialogue) may not be playing
Switch Digital Audio Out to PCM to force stereo mixing
Intermittent audio suggests connection or format issues:
Check HDMI cable connections—reseat both ends firmly
Try a different HDMI cable
Switch Digital Audio Out from Auto to PCM
Update TV firmware (Settings → Support → System Update)
If using a soundbar, try optical instead of HDMI ARC
If maximum volume isn't loud enough:
Disable Auto Volume Control (it limits peaks)
Check Volume Level Balance—some inputs have individual volume limits
Increase per-input volume if your TV offers it
Consider that budget TV speakers have inherent output limitations—a soundbar may be necessary
When nothing else works, reset audio to factory defaults:
Google TV: Settings → Device Preferences → Sound → Reset to Default
VIDAA: Settings → Sound → Reset to Default
Roku TV: Settings → System → Advanced System Settings → Factory Reset → Reset TV Audio and Picture Settings (this doesn't erase apps or accounts)
Fire TV: Settings → Device & Software → Reset to Factory Defaults (caution: this erases everything)
If the Sound Test produces no audio, or you hear crackling/distortion through built-in speakers at low volume, the speakers may have hardware damage. Contact Hisense support for service options.
Not all Hisense TVs have the same audio capabilities. Here's what to expect from each series and how to get the best results.
Speaker configuration: 2.0 channel, 10-20W total output
Audio features:
Basic sound modes (Standard, Movie, Music, News)
No built-in Dolby Atmos processing (passthrough only to external devices)
Simple equalizer
Realistic expectations: Built-in speakers provide acceptable audio for news and casual viewing. Dialogue can sound thin, and there's minimal bass impact. These TVs benefit significantly from even an entry-level soundbar.
Best settings for A-series:
Sound Mode: Standard
Dialogue Enhancement: ON
Consider Digital Audio Out to soundbar for meaningful improvement
Speaker configuration: 2.1 channel with built-in subwoofer (20-30W)
Audio features:
Enhanced sound modes including Game Mode
Dolby Atmos passthrough
DTS decoding
Improved bass response from integrated sub
HDMI eARC support
What's improved: The built-in subwoofer makes a noticeable difference in movie watching. Explosions and music have genuine impact that budget models lack.
Best settings for U6N:
Sound Mode: Theater for movies, Game for gaming
Surround Sound: ON
Digital Audio Out: Passthrough (if using soundbar)
Speaker configuration: 2.1.2 channel, 60W
Audio features:
Built-in Dolby Atmos processing with up-firing speakers
Integrated subwoofer
Full equalizer with multiple presets
Virtual height channels
What's improved: The U7N can actually produce overhead Atmos effects through its up-firing speakers. For users who don't want a soundbar, this represents a significant upgrade. Gaming audio benefits from low-latency processing combined with decent power.
Best settings for U7N:
Dolby Atmos: ON
Sound Mode: Theater for movies, Game for gaming
Wall Mount Setup: ON if wall-mounted (adjusts for reflection)
Speaker configuration: 2.1.2 channel (55"-75") to 4.1.2 channel (85"+), 50-60W
Audio features:
Full Dolby Atmos processing
DTS:X support
Enhanced dialogue clarity processing
Multiple up-firing speakers (larger sizes)
IMAX Enhanced audio support
What's improved: The U8N delivers genuinely impressive audio for a TV. The 2.1.2 system produces a wide soundstage with convincing overhead effects. Dialogue clarity technology makes speech intelligible even during action scenes.
Best settings for U8N:
Dolby Atmos: ON
Sound Mode: Theater (with adjustments)
Dialogue Enhancement: Medium
Digital Audio Out: Passthrough for Atmos soundbar, Dolby Digital otherwise
Speaker configuration: 4.1.2 to 5.1.2 channel (varies by size)
Audio features:
Most advanced Dolby Atmos implementation
Multiple subwoofers
Enhanced surround processing
Best-in-class TV speaker performance
What's improved: The U9N's audio system rivals entry-level soundbars. The additional channels create genuine surround immersion. Most users won't need external audio unless pursuing true home theater quality.
Series | Channels | Atmos Built-In | Subwoofer | Soundbar Needed? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
A4K/A6K | 2.0 | No (passthrough) | No | Recommended |
U6N | 2.1 | No (passthrough) | Yes | Optional |
U7N | 2.1.2 | Yes | Yes | Optional |
U8N | 2.1.2 to 4.1.2 | Yes | Yes | For audiophiles |
U9N | 4.1.2 to 5.1.2 | Yes | Multiple | For audiophiles |
The best sound mode depends on your content. Standard works well for everyday TV—news, sitcoms, and general viewing—providing balanced audio without heavy processing. Theater mode enhances movies with boosted bass and surround effects, making action sequences more impactful. Game mode is essential for gaming because it reduces audio processing delay. Music mode flattens the equalizer for accurate music reproduction. For late-night viewing, Night mode compresses volume so explosions don't wake the household. Start with Standard, then switch to content-specific modes as needed.
Connect your soundbar using HDMI ARC for the best experience. Locate the HDMI port labeled "ARC" or "eARC" on your TV (usually HDMI 1, 2, or 3). Connect an HDMI cable from this port to your soundbar's HDMI OUT (ARC) port. Then enable CEC in your TV settings (Settings → System → HDMI & CEC → CEC Control ON). Finally, set your TV's audio output to ARC (Settings → Sound → Audio Output → ARC or External Speaker). Your soundbar should now receive TV audio and respond to your TV remote's volume control.
Muffled sound typically results from incorrect audio settings, not speaker damage. First, set Sound Mode to Standard—Theater and Music modes sometimes over-process audio. Then disable Virtual Surround or TruSurround effects, which can muddy the sound. In the equalizer, reduce bass (100Hz) and boost mids (1.5kHz) by +2 to +3 to bring dialogue clarity back. If you're using a soundbar, check that the audio format is compatible—try switching Digital Audio Out to PCM. Finally, ensure nothing physically blocks your TV speakers.
Yes. Premium models like the U7N, U8N, and U9N feature built-in Dolby Atmos processing and speakers that create overhead sound effects. Budget and mid-range models (A-series, U6N) support Dolby Atmos passthrough, meaning they can send Atmos audio to a compatible soundbar via HDMI eARC but can't process it through their own speakers. Enable Atmos in Settings → Sound → Dolby Atmos, and set Digital Audio Out to Passthrough for external audio devices.
To reset audio settings without affecting other preferences, navigate to Settings → Sound and look for "Reset to Default" or "Reset Sound Settings." On Google TV, go to Settings → Device Preferences → Sound → Reset. On Roku TV, use Settings → System → Advanced System Settings → Factory Reset → Reset TV Audio/Picture. This restores all audio options to factory defaults without erasing your apps, accounts, or Wi-Fi settings.
For balanced everyday audio, try: 100Hz at 0, 500Hz at 0, 1.5kHz at +2, 5kHz at +1, 10kHz at 0. This provides slight dialogue enhancement without coloring the overall sound. For action movies with more bass impact, use: 100Hz at +4, 500Hz at +2, 1.5kHz at 0, 5kHz at 0, 10kHz at -1. For dialogue-heavy content like documentaries, try: 100Hz at -2, 500Hz at 0, 1.5kHz at +3, 5kHz at +2, 10kHz at 0. Avoid extreme settings—TV speakers distort when pushed too hard.
Start by checking the mute button and volume level—the most common culprits. Then verify Settings → Sound → Audio Output is set to TV Speakers (not ARC or Bluetooth). Check if a Bluetooth device is connected and redirecting audio (Settings → Bluetooth → disconnect any paired devices). Power cycle the TV by unplugging for 60 seconds. If using external devices, try a different HDMI input. Run the Sound Test (Settings → Support → Self Diagnosis → Sound Test). If you hear the test tone, your speakers work and the issue is settings or source-related.
On Google TV models, go to Settings → Display & Sound → Sound and toggle Dolby Atmos to ON. On VIDAA, navigate to Settings → Sound → Dolby Atmos → ON. On Roku TV, set Settings → Audio → Streaming Audio Format to Auto or Dolby. On Fire TV, go to Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Dolby Atmos → ON. If Dolby Atmos appears greyed out, your content may not include Atmos audio, or Digital Audio Out may be set to PCM instead of Auto/Passthrough.
Your Hisense TV shipped with safe, conservative audio settings—now you have the knowledge to unlock its full potential.
The fundamentals are straightforward. Find your TV's sound settings using the OS-specific path for Roku, Google TV, VIDAA, or Fire TV. Choose the appropriate sound mode for your content—Theater for movies, Game for gaming, Standard for everyday viewing. If dialogue sounds unclear, enable Dialogue Enhancement and boost the 1.5kHz equalizer band.
For the best results, remember that TV speakers have inherent limitations. Budget models benefit tremendously from even an entry-level soundbar. Premium U7N, U8N, and U9N models with built-in Dolby Atmos speakers can deliver impressive standalone audio, but serious movie enthusiasts will still appreciate external audio.
When problems arise, start simple. Check mute and volume first. Verify audio output settings match your actual setup. Power cycle the TV—60 seconds unplugged fixes a surprising number of glitches. Run the Sound Test to confirm your speakers work. These basic steps resolve the majority of audio issues.
Bookmark this guide for future reference. Hisense occasionally releases firmware updates that add features or change menu locations, and we'll update accordingly. Your perfect audio setup is just a few settings away.
Continue exploring with these hand-picked articles