Fix Hisense TV no sound issues with our complete guide. Step-by-step solutions for Roku, Google TV, VIDAA & Fire TV models. Resolve audio problems in minutes.
Your Hisense TV just went silent. The picture looks fine, but there's absolutely no audio coming from the speakers. Before you panic or start shopping for a replacement, know this: the vast majority of Hisense TV sound problems stem from fixable software issues, not hardware failure.
After testing solutions across multiple Hisense models - including Roku TV, Google TV, VIDAA, and Fire TV editions - I've compiled every working fix into this guide. Whether your audio disappeared suddenly, cuts out intermittently, or only fails on specific apps like Netflix, you'll find the solution here.
Most sound issues resolve within five minutes using basic troubleshooting. The fixes that follow are arranged from quickest to most comprehensive, so you can get back to watching without wasting time on unnecessary steps.
Before diving into detailed troubleshooting, try these rapid fixes that resolve approximately 70% of Hisense TV audio problems:
Press the Mute button on your remote - look for the speaker icon on-screen confirming unmute
Press Volume Up several times to ensure volume isn't at zero
Check Audio Output: Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and select "TV Speakers"
Power cycle properly: Unplug TV from wall for 60 seconds, then reconnect
Disconnect Bluetooth: Go to Settings → Bluetooth and disconnect any paired headphones or speakers
These steps work because they address the five most common causes: accidental muting, volume at minimum, audio routing to disconnected devices, temporary software glitches, and Bluetooth devices intercepting the audio signal.
Your troubleshooting path depends on your TV's operating system. Here's how to identify yours:
Roku TV: Purple-accented home screen with a grid of streaming channels
Google TV: Row of apps with "For You," "Live," and "Apps" tabs across the top
VIDAA: Clean horizontal menu with a distinctive remote that has a dedicated Sound button
Fire TV: Amazon's orange-highlighted interface with Alexa integration
If these quick fixes don't restore your audio, continue to the detailed sections below. For persistent issues with hisense tv no audio that the quick fixes don't resolve, you'll find advanced solutions throughout this guide.
Understanding the root cause helps you fix the problem faster. Here's what's actually happening when your Hisense TV goes silent:
Muted or Low Volume remains the number-one cause. It sounds obvious, but the mute button gets pressed accidentally more often than you'd think - especially with kids or pets around. Some Hisense remotes have sensitive buttons, and sitting on the remote can trigger mute without you noticing.
Incorrect Audio Output Settings cause silent TVs constantly. Your Hisense TV can output audio through internal speakers, HDMI ARC, optical/SPDIF, or Bluetooth. If the TV is set to send audio to a soundbar that isn't connected or powered on, you'll hear nothing from the internal speakers.
Bluetooth Devices Stealing Audio happens more than expected. Sometimes your TV has accidentally connected to hisense bluetooth connection headphones or speakers in another room, redirecting all audio there. Bluetooth has roughly a 30-foot range, so the device doesn't even need to be visible.
HDMI or Cable Connection Issues affect audio transmission. Faulty cables or hisense hdmi problems can prevent audio signals from reaching your TV, especially when using external devices like cable boxes or gaming consoles.
Software and Firmware Glitches create temporary audio failures. Like any computer, your smart TV can experience software bugs that interrupt audio processing. These typically resolve with a restart or update.
Audio Format Incompatibility causes problems with streaming content. When a streaming app outputs Dolby Digital Plus but your TV's settings expect PCM, you get silence instead of sound.
Hardware Failure is less common but possible. Internal speakers can fail after power surges, physical damage, or simply age. Speakers typically last 5-7 years with heavy use.
What You're Experiencing | Most Likely Cause |
|---|---|
No sound on any input or app | Muted, audio output settings, or hardware issue |
Sound works on some apps but not others | App-specific settings or audio format incompatibility |
Sound works through headphones but not speakers | Internal speaker failure or audio output misconfigured |
Sound cuts out intermittently | Bluetooth interference, loose cables, or firmware bug |
No sound only on external devices | HDMI/optical cable issue or CEC settings |
These foundational fixes address the most common audio problems. Work through them in order - each step eliminates a potential cause.
Start with the obvious. Press the Mute button once on your remote and look for the on-screen indicator - a speaker icon should appear showing the current state.
If your remote isn't responding, locate the physical buttons on your TV. On most Hisense models, you'll find a joystick or button panel on the bottom edge (for tabletop models) or the back right side (for wall-mounted setups). Press the volume rocker up to increase volume and verify the on-screen display shows the level rising.
Lost your remote? Learn how to hisense volume no remote using the TV's physical buttons or a smartphone app like Hisense RemoteNOW.
Your TV might be sending audio to a device that isn't connected. Here's how to check:
For all platforms: Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output (or Speakers). Select TV Speakers to route audio through the internal speakers.
If the "TV Speakers" option appears grayed out, check whether external audio devices are connected. Some Hisense models automatically disable internal speakers when they detect a soundbar or receiver on the HDMI ARC port.
A proper power cycle clears your TV's temporary memory and resets the audio processing circuits. Simply pressing the power button puts the TV in standby mode - it doesn't fully reset.
The correct method:
Turn off your TV using the remote
Unplug the TV from the wall outlet (not just from a power strip)
Wait 60 full seconds
While unplugged, press and hold the power button on the TV itself for 30 seconds
Plug the TV back in and power on
This process drains residual power from the capacitors and forces a complete restart. If your TV has a fix hisense restart problem during this process, that's a separate issue requiring its own troubleshooting.
Your TV may have paired with wireless headphones, earbuds, or a Bluetooth speaker - and now all audio routes there instead of the internal speakers.
Navigate to Settings → Bluetooth (or Remotes & Accessories on some platforms). Review the list of paired devices. If you see connected headphones or speakers, select them and choose Disconnect or Forget.
Bluetooth connections persist until manually disconnected, even if the paired device is in another room or powered off. If the device is within range (about 30 feet), the TV may reconnect automatically.
This step isolates whether the problem affects all audio or just specific inputs.
Switch between:
A streaming app (like Netflix or YouTube)
A different HDMI input
Live TV or antenna input (if available)
The TV's built-in sound test (Settings → Support → Self Diagnosis → Sound Test)
If sound works on some inputs but not others, the problem lies with that specific source - not the TV itself. A cable box or streaming stick with incorrect audio settings often causes this pattern.
Success rates for basic fixes:
Unmuting/volume adjustment: ~25% of cases
Audio output correction: ~20% of cases
Power cycling: ~15% of cases
Bluetooth disconnection: ~10% of cases
If your remote stops working during troubleshooting, you may need hisense remote batteries replacement - weak batteries cause intermittent remote failures.
When basic troubleshooting doesn't resolve the issue, your audio settings likely need adjustment. Hisense TVs run four different operating systems, each with unique menu structures.
Hisense Roku TV: Press Home → scroll to Settings → select Audio. You'll find Audio Mode, HDMI, and S/PDIF options here.
Hisense Google TV: Press the Settings button (gear icon) → Display & Sound → Audio. Advanced options appear under Sound → Advanced Settings.
Hisense VIDAA: Press Home → Settings → Sound. Many VIDAA remotes include a dedicated Sound button that cycles through modes instantly.
Hisense Fire TV: Press Home → Settings (gear icon at far right) → Display & Sounds → Audio. Fire TV includes an Audio Test function here.
Your TV offers multiple output destinations:
Output Option | When to Use It |
|---|---|
TV Speakers | Default choice when using internal speakers |
HDMI ARC/eARC | Connected soundbar or receiver via HDMI |
Optical/SPDIF | Older soundbars or receivers without ARC |
Bluetooth | Wireless speakers or headphones |
If you're using external audio, see our guide on how to connect soundbar hisense tv for optimal configuration.
This setting causes more confusion - and more silent TVs - than almost any other.
PCM (Pulse Code Modulation) forces the TV to decode audio internally before sending it to speakers or external devices. This setting fixes most streaming audio issues because it ensures compatibility.
Bitstream sends raw, encoded audio directly to external devices like AV receivers that can decode Dolby Digital or DTS themselves. If your external device doesn't support the format being sent, you get silence.
When to use PCM:
Internal TV speakers
Basic soundbars without Dolby decoding
Streaming apps with inconsistent audio
Troubleshooting any audio issue
When to use Bitstream:
High-end AV receivers
Soundbars with Dolby Atmos/DTS:X support
When you want surround sound passthrough
To change this setting: Settings → Sound → Digital Audio Out (or Advanced Audio Settings) → select PCM or Bitstream.
Hisense TVs include preset sound modes that adjust equalizer settings for different content:
Sound Mode | Best For | Effect |
|---|---|---|
Standard | General viewing | Balanced, neutral sound |
Theater/Movie | Films, drama | Enhanced bass, wider soundstage |
Music | Concerts, music videos | Emphasized mids and highs |
Speech/News | Dialogue-heavy content | Boosted vocal frequencies |
Late Night | Quiet viewing | Compressed dynamic range (loud parts quieter) |
Sports | Live events | Crowd noise enhancement |
Access these through Settings → Sound → Sound Mode. Start with Standard and adjust based on your content.
External audio devices cause more support calls than internal speaker problems. If your hisense hdmi arc soundbar setup isn't producing sound, follow this systematic approach.
This is critical: only ONE HDMI port on your Hisense TV supports ARC (Audio Return Channel). Using any other port means ARC simply won't work, regardless of settings.
Look at the back of your TV. The ARC-capable port is labeled "HDMI ARC" or "HDMI eARC" - typically HDMI 1 or HDMI 3 depending on your model. On newer premium models (U7, U8, U9 series), look for eARC specifically, which supports higher-quality audio formats.
Connect your soundbar's HDMI cable to this port only.
CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) allows your TV and soundbar to communicate. Without it enabled, ARC won't function even with the correct port.
Step-by-step CEC setup:
Press Menu on your remote
Navigate to Settings → System → HDMI & CEC Functions
Turn CEC Control to ON
Scroll down to CEC Device List
Click Detect
Your soundbar should appear in the list and may power on automatically
This detect step resolves the majority of ARC issues. Many users skip it and wonder why their soundbar stays silent. The TV needs to actively discover the connected device.
After enabling CEC: Settings → Sound → Audio Output → select HDMI ARC or ARC.
If this option appears grayed out, verify:
Your soundbar is powered on
The HDMI cable connects to the ARC port (not a regular HDMI port)
CEC Control is enabled
You've run the Detect function
When ARC refuses to cooperate, optical audio provides a reliable backup with identical quality for most content.
To set up optical:
Connect an optical (TOSLINK) cable from your TV's optical output to your soundbar's optical input
On your TV: Settings → Sound → Audio Output → select Optical or SPDIF
Set Digital Audio Out to PCM for broadest compatibility
On your soundbar, select the optical input
Optical doesn't support Dolby Atmos or DTS:X, but it handles standard Dolby Digital and stereo without the CEC complications that plague ARC connections.
Certain Hisense models (particularly U7K and U8K series) have documented issues where eARC audio output reverts to TV speakers unexpectedly. This occurs when HDMI Input settings conflict with eARC operation.
The workaround:
Go to Settings → Picture → HDMI Input Format (or Input Settings)
For the HDMI port where your source device connects (not the ARC port), change from "Enhanced" to "Standard" or "Auto"
This prevents certain 4K/HDR handshake issues that disrupt eARC
If you're experiencing broader fix hisense hdmi issues beyond audio, check our dedicated HDMI troubleshooting guide.
Feature | HDMI ARC | Optical |
|---|---|---|
Audio Quality | Up to Dolby Atmos (eARC) | Dolby Digital 5.1 max |
Cable Cost | Higher | Lower |
CEC Required | Yes | No |
Setup Complexity | Moderate | Simple |
Reliability | Can be finicky | Very stable |
For most users, if ARC works reliably, use it. If it causes constant headaches, optical delivers the same experience for standard content.
Each Hisense operating system has unique quirks that cause audio problems. Find your platform below for targeted solutions.
Roku-based Hisense TVs have a specific cache-clearing trick that resolves most audio issues. This process doesn't erase your installed channels or settings - it simply clears temporary data that may have become corrupted.
Roku Cache Clear (the secret button sequence):
Ensure your TV is on and at the home screen
Press Home 5 times
Press Up arrow 1 time
Press Rewind 2 times
Press Fast Forward 2 times
Wait 15-30 seconds for the TV to restart
This sequence triggers a soft reboot that clears the system cache. Users report it fixes intermittent sound dropouts, apps with no audio, and general audio glitches.
Audio settings for Roku:
Go to Settings → Audio → Audio Mode and select Stereo (instead of "Auto" or "Dolby Digital")
Under HDMI, set to Auto (Stereo) for broadest compatibility
For a full system restart: Settings → System → Power → System Restart
If your remote has pairing issues during troubleshooting, refer to our guide on hisense roku remote pairing.
Google TV models use Android's settings structure with more granular control than other platforms.
Audio settings path: Settings (gear icon) → Display & Sound → Audio → select TV Speakers for internal audio, or your preferred external output.
Advanced adjustments:
Within Display & Sound → Audio → Advanced Settings, you'll find the equalizer, Dolby Atmos toggle, and dialogue enhancement
For external audio via HDMI ARC: Settings → HDMI Settings → CEC → ensure CEC Control is enabled
App-specific audio issues:
Settings → Apps → [select the problematic app] → Clear Cache
Check individual app settings for audio output preferences
Some apps have their own Dolby/Stereo toggles within playback settings
Google TV allows quick sound access during playback - press the Settings button and select the speaker icon for on-the-fly adjustments.
VIDAA is Hisense's proprietary platform, found on many A-series and international models. It has a cleaner interface but fewer documented fixes online.
Key audio settings:
Settings → Sound → Audio Output → select TV Speaker
Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings → Digital Audio Out → PCM
Many VIDAA remotes have a dedicated Sound button that cycles through modes (Standard, Theater, Music, Speech, Late Night)
VIDAA-specific tips:
If sound disappears after standby, perform a full power cycle (unplug for 60 seconds)
VIDAA's auto-firmware update occasionally resets audio output settings - check after any update
The Sound button shortcut bypasses the menu entirely for quick mode switching
Fire TV models integrate Amazon's interface with Alexa voice control and Echo device compatibility.
Audio settings: Home → Settings (gear icon at far right) → Display & Sounds → Audio
Fire TV-specific features:
Audio Test: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Audio Test confirms your speakers work
Dolby Digital Output: Enable this for external receivers that support Dolby decoding
Echo Integration: If using Echo speakers as audio output, check Alexa app settings for the linked TV
Volume issues with Fire TV:
Some users report volume getting "stuck" - a full power cycle typically resolves this
Check that no Alexa routines are controlling volume unexpectedly
System updates require internet access. If your TV can't connect, learn how to hisense wifi connection first.
When sound works on some apps but not others - or on live TV but not streaming - the issue usually involves audio format compatibility rather than your TV's speakers.
Streaming services encode audio in various formats: Stereo, Dolby Digital, Dolby Digital Plus, and Dolby Atmos. Your TV must decode these formats correctly, or you get silence.
The most common scenario: Netflix outputs Dolby Digital Plus, but your TV's settings expect PCM. The TV doesn't know how to process the incoming audio format, so it outputs nothing.
Switching your TV's digital audio output to PCM forces the TV to decode all audio internally, ensuring compatibility with any app:
Go to Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings (or Digital Audio Out)
Change from "Auto" or "Bitstream" to PCM
Test the problematic app
This fix works because PCM is universally compatible. You lose high-end surround sound formats, but you regain audio.
Netflix with no sound:
Close Netflix completely (don't just back out - force close it)
Navigate to Settings → Apps → Netflix → Clear Cache
Reopen Netflix and test
YouTube with no sound:
Check in-app volume (the speaker icon on the playback bar)
Try a different video - some uploads have corrupted audio tracks
Clear YouTube cache if problems persist
General app fixes:
Restart the app
Clear the app's cache
Sign out and sign back in
Uninstall and reinstall from the hisense app downloads store
Learn how to properly force close hisense apps before relaunching them for troubleshooting.
If you've connected an external streaming device to your Hisense TV, the audio settings on BOTH devices matter.
Check the streaming device's settings:
Roku: Settings → Audio → Audio Mode → Stereo
Fire Stick: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Stereo
Apple TV: Settings → Audio & Video → Audio Format → Change Format → Stereo
Match formats between devices: Your TV and streaming device should use compatible audio output settings. If your TV is set to PCM, set your streaming device to Stereo rather than Auto or Surround.
When audio problems persist despite all other troubleshooting, outdated firmware or corrupted settings may be responsible.
Hisense releases firmware updates that specifically address audio bugs and improve device compatibility. Here's how to update each platform:
Hisense Roku TV: Settings → System → System Update → Check Now
Hisense Google TV: Settings → System → About → System Update → Check for Update
Hisense VIDAA: Settings → Support → System Update → Check Firmware Update
Hisense Fire TV: Settings → My Fire TV → About → Check for Updates
Updates require an internet connection. If your hisense network connection isn't stable, establish that first.
After updating:
The TV may restart multiple times
Check your audio output settings - updates sometimes reset them
Test sound across multiple apps and inputs
Before wiping your entire TV, try resetting just the audio settings:
Roku TV: Settings → System → Advanced System Settings → Factory Reset → Reset TV Audio/Picture Settings → press Play/Pause 3 times
Google TV: Settings → Display & Sound → Audio → Reset to Default
VIDAA: Settings → Sound → Advanced Audio Settings → Reset to Default
Fire TV: Settings → Display & Sounds → Audio → Reset to Default
This restores audio configurations to factory defaults without affecting your apps, accounts, or other settings.
A full factory reset erases everything: apps, login credentials, customized settings, and paired devices. Only proceed if other methods fail.
Before you reset:
Write down your Wi-Fi password
Note which streaming services you're logged into
Understand you'll need to set up the TV from scratch
Hisense Roku TV factory reset: Settings → System → Advanced System Settings → Factory Reset → Factory Reset Everything
Hisense Google TV factory reset: Settings → System → About → Reset → Factory Data Reset
Hisense VIDAA factory reset: Settings → System → Reset → Reset to Factory
Hisense Fire TV factory reset: Settings → My Fire TV → Reset to Factory Defaults
After reset, test the sound BEFORE reinstalling apps or connecting external devices. This confirms whether the base system audio works correctly.
If every software fix fails, hardware damage becomes a real possibility. Here's how to determine whether your speakers have actually failed.
Most Hisense TVs include a self-diagnostic tool that plays a test tone through the internal speakers:
Navigate to Settings → Support → Self Diagnosis → Sound Test
Interpreting results:
Test tone plays clearly: Speakers work; the problem is software/settings
No test tone at all: Possible speaker failure or severe software issue
Distorted or crackling test tone: Speaker damage or loose internal connection
This test isolates whether the audio circuitry works even if internal speakers don't:
Connect wired headphones to your TV's hisense headphone output jack
Play content and check for audio through the headphones
Alternatively, connect external speakers via optical or ARC
If external audio works but internal speakers don't: Your internal speakers have likely failed. The TV's audio processing is fine, but the speakers themselves are damaged.
If no audio through any output: This suggests a failure in the audio processing board rather than just the speakers - a more serious hardware issue.
These signs point toward hardware problems rather than software:
No sound through ANY output (internal speakers, headphones, optical, HDMI ARC)
Persistent crackling or distortion that survives all software fixes
Volume controls visually work on-screen but produce no change in actual sound
Audio issues began immediately after a power surge, lightning storm, or physical impact
The TV is more than 5-6 years old with heavy daily use
Power surges and voltage spikes damage sensitive audio components. Without a surge protector, a brief spike can destroy speaker circuits instantly.
Liquid damage from spills, humidity, or improper cleaning corrodes internal connections.
Physical impact from moving or bumping the TV can dislodge speakers from their mounting or break internal wiring.
Age and wear eventually affects all electronic components. Speakers have mechanical parts (cones, coils) that degrade over time.
Like speaker failures, hisense backlight repair issues may indicate broader hardware problems requiring professional attention.
Sometimes the DIY approach reaches its limits. Here's when to escalate and what to expect.
Reach out to Hisense customer service when:
All software troubleshooting has been exhausted
The built-in sound test produces no audio
Issues began after physical damage or a power surge
Your TV is under warranty
You've identified a likely hardware failure
Phone (TVs & Audio Products): +1 (888) 935-8880
Hours: Monday–Friday 9am–9pm EST, Saturday–Sunday 9am–6pm EST
Email: customercare@hisense-usa.com
Website: hisense-usa.com/support
Live Chat: Available on the Hisense USA website during business hours
Before calling, gather:
Model number: Found in Settings → About, or on the label on the TV's back
Serial number: Same locations as model number
Purchase date and proof: Receipt or order confirmation
Detailed description: When the problem started, what you've tried, what happens now
Hisense provides a 1-year limited warranty covering manufacturing defects on all TVs sold in the United States.
What's typically covered:
Audio circuitry or speaker failure not caused by damage
Software defects that cause persistent audio problems
Component failures under normal use
What voids the warranty:
Physical damage (drops, spills, impacts)
Unauthorized repairs or modifications
Power surge damage (considered environmental, not a defect)
Commercial use of a consumer product
Extended warranty options: Hisense offers extended service plans through their website. If you purchased from a retailer like Best Buy or Costco, you may have additional protection through their warranty programs.
Consider Repair If... | Consider Replacement If... |
|---|---|
TV is under warranty | Repair cost exceeds 40% of new TV price |
Repair cost is reasonable | TV is 5+ years old |
Specific component failed (speaker, board) | Multiple systems failing |
You like your current TV's features | Newer models offer significant upgrades |
Out-of-warranty speaker repairs typically cost $100-$200 for parts and labor. If your TV originally cost $300, replacement makes more financial sense. For a premium model that cost $1,000+, repair may be worthwhile.
Prevention beats troubleshooting. These maintenance practices reduce future audio issues.
Power surges destroy TV components instantly. A decent surge protector ($20-$40) safeguards your TV from voltage spikes caused by lightning, grid fluctuations, or appliance cycling.
Look for surge protectors rated for TVs with at least 1,000 joules of protection. Replace the protector every 3-5 years or after a significant surge event - they wear out.
Enable automatic updates: Settings → Support (or System) → System Update → Auto Update → ON
Check manually once a month to ensure you haven't missed critical patches. Audio-related bugs are common in firmware updates because streaming services constantly change their formats.
Use your remote's power button to turn off the TV - this initiates a proper shutdown sequence. Unplugging while the TV is running can corrupt settings and damage components over time.
If you must unplug for travel or extended absence, turn the TV off first and wait 10 seconds before unplugging.
HDMI and optical cables degrade over time, especially if bent sharply near connectors. Replace cables showing visible wear (fraying, kinks, loose connectors) every 4-5 years.
Use high-quality cables rated for your TV's capabilities - budget cables with inadequate shielding cause intermittent audio problems.
Frequency | Task |
|---|---|
Weekly | Restart TV via Settings menu (clears memory) |
Monthly | Check for firmware updates |
Monthly | Clear cache on Roku TVs using button sequence |
Quarterly | Verify audio output settings haven't changed |
Yearly | Inspect cables, replace batteries, check surge protector |
Proper hisense wall mount installation positioning can also affect built-in speaker sound projection - speakers aimed at walls rather than into the room sound muffled.
For more on hisense brand reliability and long-term durability, see our comprehensive brand review.
Hisense TV sound typically stops suddenly due to accidental muting, audio output switching to a disconnected device (like an unplugged soundbar), Bluetooth headphones connecting automatically, software glitches after standby, or HDMI cable issues. Start by pressing the mute button, checking audio output settings, and power cycling the TV for 60 seconds.
To reset sound on a Hisense TV, go to Settings → Sound → Advanced Settings → Reset to Default. This restores audio settings without affecting other configurations. For a complete reset, perform a factory reset via Settings → System → Reset, but this erases all data.
On Roku TVs specifically: Settings → System → Advanced System Settings → Factory Reset → Reset TV Audio/Picture Settings, then press Play/Pause three times.
This indicates an audio-specific issue rather than a general failure. Check whether the TV is muted, verify audio output is set to TV Speakers (not an external device), ensure no Bluetooth devices are connected, and test the built-in speaker through Settings → Support → Self Diagnosis → Sound Test.
If the speaker test fails but picture works perfectly, internal speakers may have failed while video processing remains functional.
Yes, most Hisense smart TVs support Bluetooth audio. To pair: Settings → Bluetooth → Add Device, then put your headphones in pairing mode. Once connected, audio routes to the headphones automatically. To hear sound through TV speakers again, disconnect the Bluetooth device.
Intermittent sound dropouts commonly result from: Bluetooth devices intermittently connecting/disconnecting, loose HDMI or optical cables, Wi-Fi interference affecting streaming audio, firmware bugs, or audio format switching between content. Try disabling Bluetooth entirely, re-seating all cables, switching digital audio output to PCM, and updating firmware.
First, connect the soundbar to the HDMI port labeled "ARC" (usually HDMI 1 or 3). Then enable CEC: Settings → System → HDMI & CEC Functions → CEC Control ON → scroll to CEC Device List → click Detect. Finally, set audio output: Settings → Sound → Audio Output → HDMI ARC.
App-specific silence usually indicates audio format incompatibility. Go to Settings → Sound → Digital Audio Out and change to PCM. Then close Netflix completely and reopen it. If the problem persists, clear Netflix's cache: Settings → Apps → Netflix → Clear Cache.
If your TV is under warranty, pursue repair first - it's free. For out-of-warranty TVs, consider that speaker repair costs $100-$200, while a decent soundbar costs $100-$300. A soundbar offers significantly better audio quality than internal TV speakers, so upgrading makes sense if you were considering better sound anyway. For basic viewing on a budget TV, repair may suffice.
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and select HDMI ARC (if using ARC connection) or Optical (if using optical cable). This automatically disables internal speakers. Alternatively, some TVs have an explicit "TV Speaker" toggle that can be turned OFF within the Sound menu.
ARC (Audio Return Channel) supports compressed audio formats like Dolby Digital 5.1. eARC (Enhanced ARC) supports uncompressed, high-bandwidth audio including Dolby Atmos and DTS:X.
Practical difference: If you have a premium soundbar with Dolby Atmos support and watch Atmos content, eARC delivers the full quality. For standard stereo or 5.1 content, ARC and eARC perform identically. Both use the same HDMI port - eARC is just the newer, higher-bandwidth version.
Most Hisense TV sound problems resolve with basic troubleshooting: checking mute/volume, verifying audio output settings, and power cycling properly. Platform-specific fixes - especially the Roku cache clear button sequence - address the majority of remaining issues.
When software solutions fail, the built-in sound test helps determine whether you're dealing with hardware failure. For problems under warranty or beyond DIY repair, Hisense support at +1 (888) 935-8880 can guide you through warranty service or repair options.
Prevention matters: use a surge protector, keep firmware updated, and maintain proper shutdown habits. These simple practices prevent the majority of audio failures before they happen.
Last verified: January 2026. Contact information, menu paths, and procedures confirmed current. If you encounter different menu structures on your specific model, Hisense support can provide model-specific guidance.