Fix HDMI not working on Hisense TV with our complete troubleshooting guide. Solve no signal, black screen, ARC issues, and device-specific problems for PS5, Xbox, Fire Stick & more.
Your Hisense TV won't display anything through HDMI, and you're staring at that dreaded "No Signal" message. Take a breath - this problem is almost always fixable without calling a technician or spending money on repairs.
I've troubleshot this exact issue across dozens of Hisense models, from budget A6 series TVs to premium U8K units, and the fixes that work haven't changed much. What has changed is the complexity of our setups - 4K gaming consoles demanding HDMI 2.1 bandwidth, soundbars requiring proper ARC configuration, and streaming sticks that seem to lose connection for no apparent reason.
This guide walks you through every solution, starting with the 90-second fixes that resolve most cases and progressing to advanced troubleshooting for stubborn problems. Whether your PS5 refuses to handshake, your Fire Stick shows a black screen, or your soundbar stopped producing audio through HDMI ARC, you'll find the answer here.
Before diving into complex diagnostics, try these five quick fixes that resolve approximately 80% of HDMI issues on Hisense TVs. Most take less than two minutes.
Ask yourself three questions before troubleshooting further:
Is the TV actually powered on (not just in standby)?
Is the correct HDMI input selected on the TV?
Is the cable firmly connected at both ends?
If you answered "no" or "not sure" to any of these, address that first. You'd be surprised how often the solution is simply pressing the Input button on your remote.
This isn't just turning your TV off and on. A proper power cycle clears the TV's internal memory and resets HDMI communication protocols.
Unplug your Hisense TV from the wall outlet completely. Press and hold the physical power button on the TV itself (usually located beneath the screen near the IR receiver) for 15 seconds. This drains residual power from the capacitors.
Wait at least 30 minutes before plugging the TV back in. Yes, 30 minutes sounds excessive, but the components inside your TV hold charge longer than you'd expect. Shorter waits often don't fully reset the system.
Plug the TV back in, power it on, and test your HDMI connection. If you see a red standby light illuminate briefly when you reconnect power, the reset worked.
Disconnect the HDMI cable from both the TV and your source device. Inspect the connectors for bent pins, dust, or visible damage. Blow gently into the HDMI ports (or use compressed air) to clear any debris.
Push the cable firmly back into place until you feel it seat properly. A loose connection - even by a millimeter - can break the signal entirely.
Press the Input or Source button on your Hisense remote. Cycle through each HDMI option until you find the one matching your connected device. Note that Hisense TVs label ports as "HDMI 1," "HDMI 2," and so on - make sure the number matches where your device is actually plugged in.
Even cables that look perfectly fine can fail internally. Swap in a different HDMI cable, preferably a High Speed HDMI cable with Ethernet support for standard devices, or an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable for 4K 120Hz gaming.
The cable that came with your PS5 or Xbox works perfectly for this test since it's certified for high-bandwidth applications.
Most Hisense TVs have 3-4 HDMI ports. If HDMI 1 isn't working, try HDMI 2 or HDMI 3. Sometimes individual ports develop issues while others continue functioning normally.
If your TV won't power on at all during this process, the problem might be separate from HDMI connectivity - see our guide on how to fix hisense wont power on for additional troubleshooting steps.
Still stuck after trying all five? Continue to the diagnostic section below to identify exactly what's causing your specific issue.
Understanding why your HDMI isn't working helps you target the right fix. Let's map your symptoms to their most likely causes.
What You're Experiencing | Most Likely Cause | Jump To Section |
|---|---|---|
"No Signal" message on screen | Wrong input, loose cable, or handshake failure | Basic Troubleshooting |
Black screen, no message | Power issue, cable failure, or TV settings | Settings & Software |
Picture works, no sound | Audio output misconfigured or ARC issue | HDMI ARC Section |
Sound works, no picture | HDCP error or resolution mismatch | Advanced Troubleshooting |
Intermittent flickering/dropout | Cable quality, loose connection, or firmware bug | Advanced Troubleshooting |
Works with some devices, not others | Device-specific compatibility issue | Device-Specific Section |
When you connect a device via HDMI, your TV and that device perform a "handshake" - a rapid exchange of information about what each can handle. The TV says "I support these resolutions and formats," and the device responds with "Great, I'll send this signal."
HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) adds another layer. It's copy protection that verifies both devices are authorized to display copyrighted content. If HDCP authentication fails, you'll see a black screen or an error message instead of your content.
Handshake failures happen when timing gets disrupted, cables can't carry the signal properly, or devices disagree about their capabilities. Power cycling forces both devices to restart this negotiation from scratch - which is why it fixes so many issues.
Hisense ships TVs with three different operating systems, and the menu navigation differs for each. Before following any settings-based fix, identify which OS your TV runs.
Roku TV: Interface dominated by Roku's purple-themed home screen with app tiles. Settings accessed through the Roku menu system.
VIDAA OS: Hisense's proprietary system with a horizontal launcher bar at the bottom of the screen. Most common on recent Hisense models.
Google TV: Features Google's interface with content recommendations and Google Assistant integration. App icons arranged vertically on the left side.
To identify your exact model and OS, you'll need to find hisense tv model number in Settings → About or on the label on the back of your TV.
If you have sound but no picture, the HDMI connection itself is working - the issue is likely HDCP protection blocking the video signal, a resolution your TV doesn't support, or a TV picture setting problem.
If you have picture but no sound, your TV's audio output might be configured incorrectly, or you're experiencing an ARC/eARC issue with a soundbar or receiver. Check out our fix hisense tv audio guide for sound-specific troubleshooting.
Connect a different device to the same HDMI port on your TV. If a laptop or DVD player works fine but your PS5 doesn't, the problem is device-specific. If nothing works on that port, the TV port may be damaged.
Conversely, connect your original device to a different TV or monitor. If it works elsewhere, your Hisense TV settings or ports need attention.
These foundational fixes address the most common causes of HDMI failure. Work through each methodically - skipping steps often means missing the actual solution.
I touched on this in the quick fixes, but here's the full procedure with the reasoning behind each step.
Turn off your Hisense TV using the remote or power button. Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet - not just from the TV, but from the wall. Locate the physical power button on your TV (check below the screen or on the side panel) and hold it for 15 seconds.
The 15-second hold drains residual electricity from the capacitors inside your TV. These capacitors store settings and operational states that can become corrupted. Draining them forces a clean restart.
Now wait 30 minutes. I know it's tedious, but shorter waits don't guarantee a full reset. Components inside modern TVs retain charge longer than older models. During testing on the Hisense U7K, issues that persisted after 10-minute waits resolved after 30 minutes.
Reconnect power and turn on your TV. You should see the Hisense logo appear as if from a fresh start. Test your HDMI connection immediately.
Not all HDMI cables are created equal, and the differences matter more than marketing would suggest.
Standard HDMI cables (also called High Speed) support up to 18 Gbps bandwidth - enough for 4K at 60Hz or 1080p at 120Hz with HDR.
Ultra High Speed HDMI cables (HDMI 2.1) support up to 48 Gbps - required for 4K at 120Hz, 8K video, or advanced gaming features like VRR and ALLM.
If you're connecting a PS5 or Xbox Series X and want 4K 120Hz gaming, you must use an Ultra High Speed cable. The cable included with your console meets this specification. Standard cables will cause handshake failures at high resolutions.
When inspecting cables, look for:
Bent or broken pins inside the connector
Frayed or kinked sections along the cable length
Loose-feeling connectors that don't click into place
Corrosion or discoloration on the metal contacts
If your cable shows any damage, replace it. Budget cables from reputable brands like Amazon Basics or Monoprice work perfectly for most applications - you don't need to spend $50 on a cable to get reliable performance.
Your Hisense TV has multiple HDMI ports, usually numbered 1 through 4. Test each port systematically to rule out a faulty port.
Connect your device to HDMI 1. Note the port number you're using. Press the Input button on your remote and select HDMI 1 specifically. Wait 15 seconds for the handshake to complete.
If no signal appears, disconnect and try HDMI 2. Repeat for all available ports. Document which ports work and which don't.
If your TV needs a firmware update to resolve HDMI issues but won't connect to the internet, first establish your hisense wifi connection before proceeding with updates.
The order you power on devices and connect cables matters more than most people realize. An incorrect sequence can cause handshake failures that a correct sequence avoids.
Recommended connection sequence:
Connect the HDMI cable to your source device (PS5, Fire Stick, etc.) while both devices are off
Connect the other end to your Hisense TV
Power on your TV first and wait for it to fully boot
Select the correct HDMI input on your TV
Power on your source device
This sequence allows your TV to be "listening" before the source device starts transmitting. Many handshake failures occur because the source device begins sending signals before the TV is ready to receive them.
Dust and debris accumulate in HDMI ports over time, especially on TVs that haven't been moved in months or years.
Use compressed air to blow into each port - short bursts from about 2 inches away. Don't insert anything into the port to scrape or clean it; you'll risk bending the delicate pins inside.
If you see visible debris that compressed air won't dislodge, a soft brush (like a clean, dry toothbrush) can gently sweep the opening. Never use liquid cleaners inside HDMI ports.
If your TV keeps rebooting during troubleshooting, you might be dealing with a firmware issue - check our guide on hisense tv rebooting itself for additional solutions.
When hardware troubleshooting doesn't resolve the problem, software settings become the prime suspects. Outdated firmware, incorrect configurations, or conflicting features often cause HDMI failures.
Firmware updates frequently include fixes for HDMI handshake bugs, improved device compatibility, and better ARC/eARC performance. Always update to the latest version when experiencing connection issues.
For VIDAA OS (Most Recent Hisense TVs):
Press the Settings button on your remote. Navigate to Support → System Update. Select Check for Updates and allow the TV to search. If an update is available, select Download and Install. The TV will restart automatically after installation.
For Roku TV Models:
Press the Home button on your remote. Navigate to Settings → System → System Update. Select Check Now to search for updates. Updates download and install automatically when available.
For Google TV Models:
Press the Settings button (gear icon) on your remote. Navigate to System → About → System Update. Select Check for Update and follow the prompts to install.
Manual USB Update (For Offline TVs):
If your TV can't connect to the internet, visit hisense-usa.com/support on your computer. Download the firmware file for your specific model number. Transfer it to a USB flash drive formatted as FAT32. Insert the USB drive into your TV's USB port, then navigate to Settings → Support → System Update → USB Update.
CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) allows your devices to control each other through HDMI. Your TV remote can control your soundbar, or your PS5 can turn your TV on when you start a game.
But CEC can also cause conflicts. If multiple devices are fighting for control, HDMI signals can get disrupted.
To access CEC settings on Hisense TVs:
Navigate to Settings → System → HDMI & CEC Functions (VIDAA) or Settings → System → Control Other Devices (Roku) or Settings → Channels & Inputs → HDMI-CEC (Google TV).
You'll find these options:
CEC Control: Master toggle for the feature
Device Auto Power Off: TV turns off connected devices when you power down
TV Auto Power On: TV turns on when you power up a connected device
ARC: Enables Audio Return Channel for soundbars/receivers
Device List/Detect: Shows connected CEC devices and allows detection
If you're experiencing HDMI issues, try disabling CEC Control entirely to test. If your HDMI works with CEC disabled, re-enable it and disable individual sub-features until you identify the conflicting setting.
For 4K HDR content, your TV needs HDMI ports configured to accept enhanced signals. By default, some Hisense TVs ship with ports in "standard" mode that limits bandwidth.
Navigate to Settings → Inputs → HDMI Signal Format (VIDAA) or Settings → System → HDMI Mode (Roku) or Settings → Channels & Inputs → HDMI Signal Format (Google TV).
Select the port where your 4K device is connected. Choose "Enhanced" or "4K Enhanced" rather than "Standard." This enables full HDMI 2.0/2.1 bandwidth for HDR and high refresh rate content.
Important: Only enable Enhanced mode for devices that actually support it. Older devices may not handshake properly with Enhanced mode, causing black screens.
If settings have become hopelessly corrupted, a factory reset returns your TV to its original state. This erases all your customizations, saved WiFi passwords, and app logins.
Navigate to Settings → System → Reset or Settings → Device Preferences → Reset depending on your OS. Select Factory Reset and confirm. The TV will restart and walk you through initial setup again.
After a factory reset, you may need to pair hisense tv remote again, especially if you have a Bluetooth-enabled voice remote.
HDMI ARC (Audio Return Channel) and its enhanced version, eARC, let you send audio from your TV to a soundbar or receiver through the same HDMI cable that sends video to your TV. It's convenient when it works - and frustrating when it doesn't.
ARC supports compressed audio formats like Dolby Digital and DTS, requiring about 1 Mbps bandwidth. It's been available since HDMI 1.4.
eARC supports uncompressed audio formats like Dolby TrueHD, DTS-HD Master Audio, and Dolby Atmos with up to 37 Mbps bandwidth. It requires HDMI 2.1.
If you want Dolby Atmos from streaming services passed through to your soundbar, you need eARC on both your TV and your soundbar, plus a High Speed HDMI cable with Ethernet at minimum.
Not all HDMI ports on your Hisense TV support ARC. Typically only one port - often HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 - has this capability.
Look at the back or side panel of your TV. The ARC-capable port is labeled "HDMI (ARC)" or "HDMI (eARC)." If your soundbar is connected to HDMI 3 but only HDMI 1 supports ARC, audio won't flow to your soundbar regardless of your settings.
Move your soundbar's HDMI cable to the designated ARC port. Connect it to the "HDMI OUT (ARC)" port on your soundbar - not an HDMI input.
Here's something many guides don't mention clearly: ARC requires CEC to be enabled. If CEC Control is turned off in your TV settings, ARC won't function even with everything else configured correctly.
Navigate to Settings → System → HDMI & CEC Functions. Enable CEC Control. Scroll down to the CEC Device List and select Detect to find your soundbar. Your soundbar should appear in the list once detected.
If your remote isn't responding while navigating these settings, check that your hisense remote batteries aren't depleted - weak batteries cause intermittent button presses.
For comprehensive connection guidance covering optical and wireless options, see our detailed guide on how to connect soundbar hisense tv.
After connecting your soundbar to the ARC port, configure your TV to actually use it.
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output or Speakers. Select HDMI ARC (or eARC if available) instead of TV Speakers. Set Digital Audio Format to Auto or Passthrough if you want advanced formats passed through to your soundbar.
If you select Passthrough and then lose audio, your soundbar may not support the format being sent. Switch to Auto and let the TV negotiate compatible formats automatically.
Soundbar not detected: Enable CEC, run device detection, and ensure your soundbar's CEC feature is also enabled. Different manufacturers call CEC by different names - Samsung uses "Anynet+," LG uses "SimpLink," Sony uses "Bravia Sync."
Audio cutting out intermittently: Check cable quality. ARC requires better cable quality than basic video transmission. Try a Premium Certified High Speed HDMI cable. Also disable any audio processing features on your TV that might be interfering.
Volume control not working through TV remote: This requires CEC volume control to be enabled on both the TV and soundbar. Check your soundbar's manual for its CEC settings.
eARC setting keeps reverting to ARC: This is a known firmware bug on some Hisense models. Check for firmware updates that may address it. As a workaround, set the audio output format to PCM instead of Passthrough.
If ARC continues causing problems, Bluetooth offers an alternative wireless connection. Check our guide on hisense bluetooth connection for wireless audio setup options.
Different devices have different requirements and common failure points. Here's how to fix HDMI issues for the most popular devices connected to Hisense TVs.
The PS5 demands significant bandwidth for its full capabilities - 4K at 120Hz with HDR requires HDMI 2.1. Many Hisense HDMI issues with PS5 stem from the console trying to output more than the TV or cable can handle.
Enable Enhanced HDMI for PS5: Navigate to Settings → Inputs → HDMI Mode on your Hisense TV. Select the port where your PS5 is connected and choose Enhanced or HDMI 2.1 mode.
Boot PS5 in Safe Mode to lower resolution: If your PS5 won't display anything at all, boot it in Safe Mode to reset video settings. Power off the PS5 completely. Press and hold the power button until you hear a second beep (about 7 seconds). Connect a controller via USB and select "Change Video Output" → "Change Resolution" → choose 720p or 1080p temporarily.
Once you can see the screen, navigate to Settings → Screen and Video → Video Output and set Resolution to lower than 4K to test basic connectivity. Gradually increase resolution to find what your setup supports.
Verify HDMI cable supports PS5: The cable included with your PS5 is rated for HDMI 2.1. If you're using a third-party cable, verify it's actually Ultra High Speed certified - many cables claiming "4K support" only handle 4K at 60Hz, not 120Hz.
If 4K 120Hz won't enable: Navigate to Settings → Screen and Video → Enable 120Hz Output on your PS5 and ensure it's set to Automatic. Also verify your Hisense TV actually supports 4K at 120Hz on the port you're using - some models only support 120Hz at lower resolutions or on specific ports.
Xbox consoles have similar requirements to PS5. The troubleshooting approach mirrors the PlayStation steps with a few Xbox-specific notes.
Reset Xbox display settings: Press and hold the Xbox button on your controller to open the power menu. Select Restart Console. During restart, hold the Eject and Xbox buttons simultaneously until you hear a second startup sound. This boots the Xbox at the lowest resolution (480p) for troubleshooting.
Enable HDMI Enhanced mode on TV: Same process as PS5 - Settings → Inputs → HDMI Mode → Enhanced for the connected port.
VRR (Variable Refresh Rate) considerations: If you experience flickering when VRR is enabled, try disabling it temporarily. Navigate to Xbox Settings → General → TV & Display Options → Video Modes and toggle VRR off to test.
Fire Stick issues typically involve power supply or resolution mismatches rather than pure HDMI failures.
Use the wall adapter, not TV USB: This is critical. Fire Sticks require more power than most TV USB ports provide. The included wall adapter delivers the necessary amperage. Using TV USB often causes intermittent signal loss, slow performance, or failure to boot.
Reset Fire Stick video output: If you're getting no signal, the Fire Stick might be outputting a resolution your TV doesn't support. While the device is on, press and hold the Up button and Rewind button together for 5 seconds. The Fire Stick will cycle through available resolutions automatically.
Use the HDMI extender: Fire Sticks include an HDMI extender cable for a reason. When plugged directly into the TV, the device can overheat or experience interference from the TV's electronics. The extender provides spacing and flexibility.
Check HDMI-CEC conflicts: Fire Sticks use HDMI-CEC aggressively. If you have multiple CEC devices, conflicts can cause disconnections. Try disabling CEC on your Fire Stick through Settings → Display & Sounds → HDMI-CEC Device Control and test.
For external Roku devices (not Hisense Roku TVs), similar troubleshooting applies.
Boot to lower resolution: Remove the Roku from power. Hold the reset button on the device while plugging it back in. Continue holding for 10 seconds. This forces 480p output for troubleshooting.
HDMI handshake issues: Roku devices sometimes fail to negotiate correctly with TVs. Try a different HDMI port, a different cable, or power cycling both devices.
Computer connections have their own quirks, primarily around display settings.
Windows Display Settings: Press Windows + P to open projection options. Select "Duplicate" to mirror your screen or "Extend" for a second monitor. "PC screen only" will send nothing to the TV.
If your TV isn't detected at all, right-click the desktop, select Display Settings, and click "Detect." Windows should find the TV if the HDMI connection is working.
Mac Detect Displays: Go to System Preferences → Displays. Hold the Option key and click "Detect Displays" (this option appears while holding Option). This forces macOS to scan for connected monitors.
Graphics driver updates: Outdated graphics drivers cause HDMI detection failures. Update to the latest drivers from NVIDIA, AMD, or Intel's website.
If you prefer wireless connection from Apple devices, our guide on how to cast iphone to hisense tv covers AirPlay and mirroring options.
If external device issues persist, remember that your Hisense TV likely has built-in streaming apps. Using hisense smart tv apps eliminates HDMI from the equation entirely and can serve as a temporary workaround while troubleshooting.
When basic troubleshooting fails, you're likely dealing with more complex issues involving copy protection, signal integrity, or advanced format incompatibilities.
HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) prevents unauthorized copying of copyrighted content. Before your device can send video to your TV, they exchange encrypted keys to verify both are authorized.
HDCP failures produce specific symptoms:
Complete black screen with no error message
"Content Protected" or "HDCP Error" message
Pink or purple hue across the entire image
Intermittent signal loss during protected content
HDCP versions matter:
HDCP 1.4: Required for standard HD content
HDCP 2.2: Required for 4K Ultra HD content
HDCP 2.3: Latest version for 8K and advanced HDR
If any device in your chain (source → receiver → TV) doesn't support the required HDCP version, protected content won't display.
Fixing HDCP failures:
Power cycle everything in the correct sequence. Disconnect all devices from power, wait 2 minutes, then power on in this order: TV first, wait 30 seconds, then source device.
Try a different HDMI port. Some Hisense TV ports may not support HDCP 2.2 while others do.
Update firmware on all devices. HDCP handshake bugs are often fixed in updates.
Reduce output resolution on your source device. Some HDCP negotiation issues only occur at 4K. Test at 1080p first.
Handshakes can fail due to timing - one device sends information before the other is ready to receive it.
Power-on sequence matters: Always power on your TV first and wait for it to fully boot before powering on source devices. Some users report success with the opposite approach (source first, then TV), so experiment with both sequences.
Cable length affects timing: Cables longer than 15 feet can introduce signal delays that disrupt handshakes. For long runs, use active HDMI cables or HDMI-over-Ethernet extenders rather than passive cables.
HDMI switches and splitters: Each device in the chain adds another handshake point. If you're using an HDMI switch or splitter, try connecting your source directly to the TV to test. If direct connection works, the switch may be causing handshake failures.
4K HDR content requires substantial bandwidth and specific settings to display correctly.
HDMI bandwidth requirements:
Content Type | Bandwidth Required | Cable Needed |
|---|---|---|
1080p 60Hz | ~6 Gbps | Standard HDMI |
4K 30Hz SDR | ~9 Gbps | Standard HDMI |
4K 60Hz SDR | ~12 Gbps | High Speed |
4K 60Hz HDR | ~18 Gbps | Premium High Speed |
4K 120Hz HDR | ~40 Gbps | Ultra High Speed |
If your cable doesn't support the required bandwidth, the handshake will fail or picture quality will degrade.
Enable HDMI Enhanced Format: Navigate to Settings → Inputs → HDMI Mode. Select Enhanced for ports connected to 4K devices. Without this setting, your TV limits input bandwidth to 10.2 Gbps, blocking 4K HDR signals.
If HDR or Dolby Vision won't enable: Check that both your source device and TV support the specific HDR format. Some devices output HDR10 but not Dolby Vision, or vice versa.
Verify your streaming service is actually sending HDR content. Look for HDR or Dolby Vision badges on content thumbnails. Not all content on streaming services is available in HDR.
If HDMI issues are causing display artifacts like lines across your screen, that might indicate a separate panel or connection issue - see our guide on hisense tv display lines for additional troubleshooting.
Certain Hisense models have documented HDMI bugs that firmware updates may or may not have resolved.
U7/U8 Series intermittent signal loss: Some users report the TV "losing" connected devices after periods of inactivity. The device appears disconnected in the input list until you reseat the HDMI cable. This appears related to how the TV handles standby mode - keeping the TV fully powered on (rather than standby) may prevent it.
Roku TV HDMI detection bugs: Some Hisense Roku TV models fail to automatically detect new devices. Manually select the HDMI input rather than relying on auto-switching.
VIDAA eARC audio dropout: Early VIDAA firmware versions had issues maintaining eARC connections with certain soundbars. Update to the latest firmware and set audio output to Auto rather than Passthrough as a workaround.
After exhausting software solutions, you might be dealing with actual hardware damage. Here's how to identify a failing port and decide on next steps.
Look for these indicators that suggest hardware failure rather than software issues:
Visual inspection reveals problems: Shine a flashlight into each HDMI port. Look for bent or missing pins, burn marks, discoloration, or debris lodged inside. Bent pins are common when cables are inserted at angles or forced.
Multiple devices fail on the same port: If every device you test produces no signal on HDMI 2, but they all work on HDMI 1 or HDMI 3, that specific port has likely failed.
Loose cable connection: HDMI cables should click into place and feel secure. If a cable wobbles or falls out easily, the port's internal retention mechanism may be damaged.
All ports failing simultaneously: If all HDMI ports stop working at once, the TV's main board (which handles all HDMI processing) may have failed. This usually requires professional repair or replacement.
Follow this systematic approach to confirm hardware damage:
Connect a known-working device (like a laptop) to the suspect port using a known-working cable. If no signal appears, try the same device and cable on a different port. If they work on another port, the original port is faulty.
Test the suspect port with multiple different cables. Some ports work with certain cable types but not others - though this typically indicates marginal port damage rather than complete failure.
Standard Hisense warranty: Most Hisense TVs come with a 1-year limited warranty covering manufacturing defects, which typically includes port failures. Extended warranties may be available through your retailer.
Contacting Hisense Support: Call 1-888-935-8880 for TV and audio products. Have your model number, serial number, and purchase date ready. Support hours are Monday-Friday 9 AM to 9 PM EST, Saturday-Sunday 9 AM to 6 PM EST.
You can also access support through hisense-usa.com/support, including live chat during business hours.
Repair Cost Considerations: HDMI port repair typically requires replacing the main board, which costs $100-$300 plus labor for professional repair. Compare this against your TV's current value and age.
If your TV is 3+ years old and a budget model originally, repair costs may approach or exceed the cost of a new TV with better features. If you do decide to replace your TV, our guide on hisense tv wall mount installation can help with your new setup.
When weighing repair versus replacement, understanding hisense brand reliability can help inform your decision about reinvesting in the brand.
I strongly advise against attempting HDMI port repair yourself unless you have electronics repair experience. The risks include:
Electrical hazard: TVs contain capacitors that hold dangerous charge even when unplugged
Voiding warranty: Any self-repair attempt typically voids remaining warranty coverage
Further damage: The main board contains many delicate components easily damaged by inexperienced handling
Fire risk: Improper soldering or component installation can cause short circuits
If you're set on DIY repair, at minimum let the TV sit unplugged for several days to ensure capacitor discharge, and work on an anti-static mat with proper grounding.
Most HDMI failures are preventable with proper care and setup. These maintenance practices significantly reduce your risk of future issues.
Don't let cables dangle from ports. Gravity pulling on a cable stresses the port connection over time, eventually loosening it. Use cable ties or clips to support cables and prevent strain on connectors.
Avoid sharp bends near connectors. HDMI cables should exit ports in a gentle curve, not a 90-degree angle. Sharp bends can damage internal wires and cause intermittent failures.
Leave service loops. When routing cables, leave some slack near connection points. This makes unplugging easier and prevents tugging that damages ports.
Not every expensive cable is better, but extremely cheap cables often cause problems.
Recommended cable standards:
For 4K 60Hz HDR: High Speed HDMI with Ethernet (Premium Certified preferred)
For 4K 120Hz or PS5/Xbox gaming: Ultra High Speed (HDMI 2.1 certified)
Reliable budget brands: Amazon Basics, Monoprice, and Cable Matters produce well-reviewed cables at reasonable prices. Avoid no-name cables with too-good-to-be-true pricing.
Cable certification: Look for "Premium Certified" labels on High Speed cables and "Ultra High Speed Certification" on 2.1 cables. These indicate the cable passed authentication testing.
Check for firmware updates monthly, or enable automatic updates if your TV offers this option. Navigate to Settings → Support → System Update → Auto Update (location varies by OS).
Firmware updates frequently include HDMI handshake improvements, device compatibility fixes, and bug patches. An outdated TV may not communicate properly with newly updated devices.
HDMI electronics are sensitive to power fluctuations. A surge protector (not just a power strip) provides essential protection.
Choose surge protectors rated for at least 1,000 joules with response times under 1 nanosecond. Replace surge protectors every 3-5 years - they wear out as they absorb surges.
For comprehensive protection, consider a surge protector with coaxial and Ethernet protection as well, safeguarding all connections entering your entertainment center.
Don't unplug devices while they're active. Use the power button or remote to shut down devices properly before disconnecting cables.
Use sleep timers rather than pulling the plug. Sudden power loss can corrupt settings and disrupt future HDMI handshakes.
Quarterly, use compressed air to dust HDMI ports. This prevents debris accumulation that causes connection issues.
When disconnecting cables, pull straight out rather than at an angle. Angled removal stresses the port and can bend internal pins.
When connecting cables, insert straight and push until the connector seats fully. You should feel slight resistance as the connector engages.
Periodically closing unused background apps helps your TV's processor run efficiently. Here's how to close apps on hisense tv to free up system resources.
A black screen with working audio typically indicates an HDCP handshake failure, incorrect resolution settings on your source device, or a faulty HDMI cable. The audio stream requires less bandwidth and different authentication than video, so it can work while video fails.
Try power cycling both devices, using a different HDMI cable, and lowering the output resolution on your source device to 1080p temporarily. If that works, gradually increase resolution to find your ceiling.
Signs of a damaged HDMI port include: visible bent or broken pins inside the port, loose cable connections that won't stay seated, burn marks or discoloration around the port, consistent "no signal" errors on that specific port while other ports work normally, and intermittent flickering or dropout unique to one port.
Test by connecting multiple known-working devices and cables to the suspect port. If nothing works on that port but everything works on other ports, the port itself has likely failed.
Not for all content. Standard HDMI cables work for 1080p and basic 4K at 30Hz. For 4K at 60Hz with HDR, you need at least a High Speed HDMI cable with Ethernet (preferably Premium Certified). For 4K at 120Hz with gaming consoles, you need an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable.
The cable included with your PS5, Xbox Series X, or recent streaming device is typically certified for the device's maximum output.
The "No Signal" message means your TV isn't receiving valid HDMI input on the selected source. Common causes include: wrong input selected on TV, loose or damaged cable, source device not powered on or not outputting signal, HDMI handshake failure between devices, or incompatible resolution/format settings.
Work through basic troubleshooting: verify input selection matches the port your device uses, reseat cables at both ends, power cycle both devices, and try a different cable and port. If you're having input selection issues across multiple sources, our guide on how to fix hisense input source problems may help.
If you have voice assistant features enabled, they can sometimes interfere with CEC commands - learn how to manage hisense voice settings if you suspect this is causing issues.
Check for updates monthly, or enable automatic updates in your TV settings. Firmware updates often include HDMI compatibility improvements, bug fixes for known issues, and security patches.
To check manually: Settings → Support → System Update → Check for Updates. The exact path varies by operating system (VIDAA, Roku, Google TV).
Fire Stick signal loss usually stems from inadequate power, HDMI-CEC conflicts, overheating, or resolution mismatches.
First, ensure you're using the wall adapter that came with your Fire Stick - not the TV's USB port. The USB port often can't supply sufficient power, causing intermittent failures.
Use the included HDMI extender to move the Fire Stick away from the TV's body, improving ventilation and reducing electronic interference.
Try disabling HDMI-CEC on the Fire Stick (Settings → Display & Sounds → HDMI CEC Device Control → Off) to test if CEC conflicts are causing disconnections.
Technically possible, but not recommended. Repairing HDMI ports requires replacing the TV's main board or desoldering/resoldering components - both require specialized tools, electronics experience, and accepting significant risks.
Self-repair voids warranty coverage, creates electrical hazard risks, and often causes additional damage when attempted by inexperienced individuals. Professional repair or TV replacement is safer and often more cost-effective.
Several requirements must be met for 4K 120Hz:
Your specific Hisense model must support 4K at 120Hz - not all do, despite marketing that mentions "120Hz" (some use motion interpolation to simulate 120Hz from native 60Hz panels).
You must use the correct HDMI port. On many Hisense TVs, only one or two ports support HDMI 2.1 speeds required for 4K 120Hz.
HDMI Enhanced Mode must be enabled for that port (Settings → Inputs → HDMI Mode → Enhanced).
You must use an Ultra High Speed HDMI 2.1 cable - the one included with your PS5 works.
PS5 settings must have 120Hz output enabled (Settings → Screen and Video → Enable 120Hz Output → Automatic).
Navigate to Settings → Sound → Audio Output and select HDMI (eARC). Ensure your soundbar is connected to the port labeled "HDMI (eARC)" on your TV - usually HDMI 1 or HDMI 2.
CEC Control must be enabled in Settings → System → HDMI & CEC Functions.
Use a High Speed HDMI cable with Ethernet at minimum; Ultra High Speed is preferred for full eARC bandwidth.
If the eARC option doesn't appear, check that your TV model actually supports eARC - older models may only support standard ARC.
HDMI 2.0 supports up to 18 Gbps bandwidth - enough for 4K at 60Hz with HDR or 1080p at 120Hz.
HDMI 2.1 supports up to 48 Gbps bandwidth, enabling 4K at 120Hz with HDR, 8K video, VRR (Variable Refresh Rate), ALLM (Auto Low Latency Mode), and eARC.
For gaming with PS5 or Xbox Series X at their maximum capabilities, you want HDMI 2.1 ports on your TV and an Ultra High Speed cable. For streaming and non-gaming use, HDMI 2.0 handles nearly all content available today.
If you're experiencing color-related issues through HDMI, such as an unnatural green or blue cast, those may indicate separate problems. Check our guides on fix hisense green screen or fix hisense blue tint for color-specific troubleshooting.
HDMI issues on Hisense TVs frustrate everyone who encounters them, but the vast majority resolve through systematic troubleshooting. Start with the basics - power cycling, cable checks, input verification - before moving to advanced solutions.
When quick fixes don't work, the problem usually involves settings (firmware, HDMI Enhanced mode, CEC conflicts) or device-specific compatibility issues (resolution mismatches, HDCP versions, cable inadequacy). Work through each possibility methodically rather than randomly trying fixes.
For persistent issues, document exactly what you've tried before contacting Hisense support or seeking professional repair. Knowing that you've already power cycled for 30 minutes, tested multiple cables, and tried every port helps technicians diagnose the issue faster.
Most importantly, don't assume hardware failure until you've exhausted software solutions. That "broken" TV often just needs the right combination of settings and updated firmware to work perfectly.